If you've been searching for the perfect narrow entryway table, why not build it yourself?
Today, I'm sharing a beginner-friendly DIY console table tutorial that you can easily finish in a single weekend.
While pine was my primary material—finished with a stylish slatted wood treatment on the front—this project is designed to be customized. From the type of timber you choose to the decorative accents on the top and apron, you can truly make this piece your own.
Ready to grab your saw?
Let's get to the details of this DIY console table build!
Tools and Materials
For this Console table, you will need:
- One (52" x 16 1/2" x 3/4") pine project panel for the top.
- One (49 1/2" x 14" x 3/4") pine project panel for the shelf.
- Two 1" x 3" s (cut @48" for the apron).
- Two 1" x 3" s (cut @ 12 1/2" for the apron).
- Two 1" x 3 "s scraps (cut @ 13 1/2" for top support).
- Two 1" x 2" s (cut @48" for shelf).
- Two 1" x 2" s (cut @ 12 1/2" for shelf).
- Two 1" x 3 "s scraps (cut @12 1/2" for shelf support).
- Four 2" x 2" s (cut @32" long for the legs).
- One pole-wrap piece (cut @48" x 2 1/2" - front apron detail).
Most of the materials I needed for this project were left over from other jobs and already inside my garage—the 2x2s for the legs, the 1x3s, and also the 1x2s.
I had to figure out what to use for the top and the shelf. I could've used plywood or glued pine boards together, but I went the easy way: buying a pine project panel from Lowe's.
I like these project panels because they're wide, which lessens my workload. They can be painted or stained; I don't have to finish their edges. Their price is good, too. 👍
I bought a 3/4 in x 24 in x 6ft, which wasn't enough for the main surfaces. For the shelf, I had to use a remnant from another project, plus the leftover from the top, to complete that surface.
Since I already had most of the materials, I built this console table with the space it would fill in mind.
Build the table slightly smaller (widthwise) to save on material. Buy two of each—6ft (1x2s and 1x3s)—and change the length of the front and back long pieces from 48 to 45 inches. The width of the entire table would go down to 49 "—not a significant change, but more cost-effective.
DIRECTIONS:
STEP 1 - SAND AND PREPARE THE WOOD
Follow the list to cut your material to size.
Sand it smooth, using 120-grit sandpaper - Soften up those sharp corners.
At this point, I also applied the wood conditioner, since I knew this would be a stained project and that the stain would look less patchy if I used it first.
STEP 2 - DRILL POCKET HOLES
Use the Kreg Jig to drill 3/4" pocket holes on both ends of the 1 x 12.5-inch material and supports.
STEP 3 - ASSEMBLE THE LEGS TO CREATE TWO SETS - LEFT AND RIGHT LEG
Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to assemble both sets of legs, as shown below.
Ensure you attach the top apron with a 1/4" reveal on the outside and the shelf apron flush with the inside of the leg.
STEP 4 - ADD FRONT AND BACK APRONS
Use 1 1/4" pocket-hole screws to install both sets of front and back aprons the same way as in the previous step. The top apron has a 1/4" front reveal, and the lower apron is mounted flush with the inside of the legs.
STEP 5 - ATTACH TOP AND LOWER SUPPORTS
Use 1 1/4" pocket screws to attach the top and lower supports. They should be installed flush with the top of both aprons.
STEP 6 - NOTCH OUT SHELF CORNERS AND INSTALL
I used two pieces of wood screwed together lengthwise to make the shelf. - You can use an entire piece or narrower planks.
Use a jigsaw to notch out 3/4" on both sides of all corners.
Use 1 1/4" wood screws to install by screwing up the supports and into the shelf. Don't drive those screws too deep, as they might show up through the shelf.
STEP 7 - INSTALL THE TOP
Place the top on the floor, the good side down, and place the table upside-down, leaving a 1/2" overhang all around.
Drive 1 1/4" screws through the supports and into the top.
NOTE: I also had to add pocket holes inside the apron to better secure the top's corners to the table.
STEP 8 - PAINT OR STAIN
As previously stated, I used Pre-Stain wood conditioner before assembling the table.
Once the table was assembled, I gave it a coat of Varathane Provincial, which I found too yellowish.
After sanding it with 120-grit sandpaper, I gave it a coat of Varathane Sunbleached wood stain, which has a more grayish tone.
I love that new color!
Once dry, it was sanded once again.
STEP 9 - ADD SLATTED DETAIL TO THE FRONT OF THE APRON
I had remnant pieces of pole wrap from the Kitchen Island makeover. Only a small portion of the pole wrap was needed for this small section of the table.
The pole-wrap pieces were also stained the same way as the table.
Then, wood glue was applied generously to both surfaces (the apron and the back of the pole-wrap) for installation.
Pony clamps were placed along the length to hold the two surfaces together while the glue dried. I even put a set of weight bags to keep things flat.
NOTE: I used the pole wrap because I already had it. However, I don't justify buying an entire wrap for this application.
STEP 9 - PROTECT THE WOOD
The final step is to protect the wood with Polyurethane, especially since this table will be outdoors on a balcony.
These are the final pictures at its final destination:
I hope you've enjoyed this build!
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