Beth Fish Reads

In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff (Weekend Cooking)

2023-04-15T06:01:00.004-04:00

The new spring cookbooks are starting to roll into the bookstores and into my kitchen. It's always fun to get the chance to cook out of new books.

This week is In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff, which I received because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review program. Spoiler alert: I really like the mix of information in this book.

At its heart, In Praise of Home Cooking is a guide to helping you

be confident in the kitchen, to understand ingredients, to enjoy cooking and eating, and to be capable of sustaining yourself and your friends and family.

With this mission in mind, each recipe in the cookbook was picked to teach new cooks (from children to adults) basic techniques and to expand the horizons of seasoned home chefs.

Some recipes are clearly for kids or for the truly inexperienced chef, like the one for a grilled cheese sandwich. Others may seem simple on the surface, but in fact provide a lot of information. For example, Krissoff gives us two methods for cooking rice. You may wonder what you could learn from a rice recipe. Here's what: a no-measure way to cook rice on the stove top so it's perfectly cooked and fluffy every single time. I haven't tried this yet, but other members of the Abrams Dinner Party were mightily impressed.

On another level, In Praise of Home Cooking is a kind of retro guide to homemaking--or to kitchen making, if you will. There are features on keeping your kitchen clean, on making aprons and potholders, on how to measure properly, and how to make do with what's on hand.

Krissoff may be skilled enough to plate up Instagram-ready dishes, but she's very quick to note that pretty isn't as big a goal as is nourishing yourself and your loved ones. She reminds us that home cooking is not culinary school or restaurant cooking.

So what about the recipes? Everything I made from In Praise of Home Cooking came out great. Though I don't generally use a recipe for a basic stir-fry, the Pork and Pepper Stir-Fry was delicious (see photo below). The only change I made was to cut my port a little differently and to add a few mushrooms that needed to be used up.

The Cardamom Butter Cake was dead easy and made a great snack cake, coffee or tea cake, and dessert. It's one of those recipes to keep on hand for all kinds of occasions and for no occasion at all. Two other winners are the homemade taco seasoning mix (see recipe below) and the garlic kale.

Here are some other recipes I have marked to try: Small Batch Sauerkraut; Smoky, Savory Pinto Beans; Spicy Gingerbread (see scan), and Kale, Clementine, and Cranberry Salad.

If I have any complaints about In Praise of Home Cooking, it'd be this. Krissoff encourages readers to use what's on hand and what can be easily found in local stores. Yet, in many of the photos we see high-end ingredients, such as imported canned tomatoes, the corner of a Penzey's spice bag, and a jar of artisan pickles. I understand, of course, that some products make for a prettier photo.

Recommendation: All in all I really liked Liana Krissoff's In Praise of Home Cooking. In fact, it may become my new pick for twenty-somethings getting their first apartment because the information is solid and the recipes are good and easy. City dwellers who rely on takeout, might be inspired to cook at home once in a while or may appreciate a few recipes to help stretch their paychecks. Experienced cooks will enjoy reading Krissoff's "Home Food Manifesto" as well as her stories and the recipe introductions. If you're unsure, see if your library has a copy.

Seventies-Style Taco Meat Mix for the Cupboard
Enough for 6 batches of taco meat

5 tablespoons ground cumin
4 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1½ teaspoons garlic powder
½ tablespoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons cornstarch

Put all ingredients in an airtight pint-size jar. Cover and shake to combine thoroughly. Store in a cool, dry, dark cupboard.

Use 2 tablespoons per 1½ to 2 pounds of ground meat.

This is a mild mix. To make it hotter, Krissoff suggests replacing some of the paprika with ancho chile powder or adding a little cayenne. [I did both!] Mastodon

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Two Culinary Cozy Mysteries (Weekend Cooking)

2023-04-01T06:01:00.002-04:00

Today I'm writing about two culinary cozy mysteries I've recently read. One strays a bit from the genre's usual formula, and the other one is as cozy and familiar as it gets. I enjoyed them both.

Against the Currant by Olivia Matthews (2023, St. Martins Press) is a fun first installment in a new cozy mystery series set in the Little Caribbean neighborhood of Brooklyn.

Lyndsay Murray worked hard to realize her lifelong dream of opening a West Indian bakery-cafe in partnership with her Grenadian family--Mom, Dad, brother Devon, and Granny. On opening day, friends, neighbors, and relatives line up to buy Spice Island Bakery's sweet and savory treats. All is going smoothly until a rival bakery owner shows up and begins to publicly bully Lyndsay into shuttering her shop. When the baker is later found murdered, Lyndsay becomes the prime suspect.

There is much to love about this cozy. First, it's unique in avoiding many of the usual cozy tropes. Lyndsay is smart, knows how to defend herself (she's a kickboxer), and always puts her family and business first. She, of course, does conduct her own investigation of the murder, but the story always comes back to her business, for example, we see the family baking and Lyndsay doing the book work and closing up the cafe at the end of the day. We don't see Lyndsay going down into a dark basement all by herself, and when she senses danger, she exits or calls for help.

The secondary characters are always important in a cozy, and this one is no different. Here, we get to know Lyndsay's close-knit family, learning their backstories and current life situations. We also meet Lyndsay's cousin and some neighbors and friends.

Lyndsay's character is well done: she's determined and smart but is also insecure. She worries about letting down her family and wants to protect them from harm. The bakery and the Little Caribbean streets and locals also play big roles in the story. I can't wait to revisit the clan and neighborhood in future books.

Note too, that this culinary cozy ends with two recipes from Spice Island Bakery: Currant Rolls and Coconut Bread. I like that I can bring some West Indian sweets into my kitchen.

The audiobook was beautifully read by Janina Edwards, who particularly excelled at the many needed accents. See my review of the audiobook at AudioFile Magazine.

Curds of Prey by Korina Moss (2003, St. Martin's Press), the third installment of the Cheese Shop Mystery series, has all the elements fans are looking for in a good culinary cozy.

Set in the Sonoma Valley, the series centers around Willa and her cheese shop. As background to the series and to the murder, we learn about Willa, her friends and co-workers, and the townsfolk. In this outing, Willa and other local caterers are setting up for an outdoor bridal shower on the grounds of a wealthy estate. Trouble brews before the party gets started and by day's end, there's been a murder.

Because Willa found the body, she's curious about the case. And when the town's mayor asks her to unofficially investigate, Willa can't resist. Of course, she's not in this alone and can rely on help from her closest friends. The plot has a good mix of town happenings and various red herrings. Willa and her friends cooperate with the police, who seem to know what they're doing. Throughout, we see Willa cooking up a number of yummy-sounding cheesy dishes for herself and others.

I enjoyed the escape to California and getting to know Willa. I didn't guess the killer, but once the villain was revealed, I could see that it made sense. As with all good culinary mysteries, the book ends with a couple of recipes for dishes mentioned in the story.

Note that although I haven't read the first two books in the series, I never felt lost or that I was missing out. I'm looking forward to reading more adventures with Willa and the gang.

Thanks to the publisher for the review copy.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Comments

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On the Curry Trail by Raghavan Iyer (Weekend Cooking)

2023-03-18T06:01:00.006-04:00

If you've ever looked for a curry recipe, then you're sure to have come across the name Raghavan Iyer. He's definitely a member of curry royalty, and I'm grateful to Workman Publishers for sending me a copy of his latest book, On the Curry Trail.

In this cookbook, Iyer introduces us to the many dishes from all around the world that are at heart curries, influenced by the flavors that traveled with Indians through their diaspora and by British colonials and others as they traveled from and, in some cases, permanently left the Indian subcontinent. Indeed, as Iyer tells us, curries are found (or have been found) on every continent of the globe. Yes, even Antarctica. I learned this and so much more from the introduction of On the Curry Trail.

The recipe chapters divide the curry world into geographical areas: Asia, Africa and the Mideast, Europe and Oceania, and the Americas. The dishes range from the very familiar (butter chicken) to the more exotic (sour teff crepes) and from vegan (tofu with red curry paste) to omnivore (lamb stew in bread bowls).

One thing to love about On the Curry Trail is that the vast majority of recipes call for ingredients found in a well-stocked supermarket. Better yet, the dishes are fairly easy to make and the results (at least in my experience) are fantastic. Iyer is well aware that some ingredients and techniques may be new to his readers, so the cookbook is full of tips, variations, definitions, serving ideas, and a bit of background. I especially liked learning how to make my own spice blends and sauces.

One of the recipes in On the Curry Trail made me laugh. It comes from Germany and is, in fact, a dish I ordered when I was there a few years back. That dish is currywurst. When I ordered it at a small pub, I was sure it was going to be some dazzling dish of German bratwust in a warming, yellow curry sauce. I did indeed get bratwurst, but they were served with a curry-spiced ketchup! Delicious, yes, but my friends and I had a good laugh when we realized I had basically ordered hot dogs and ketchup while on vacation in Europe! The recipe Iyer gives looks much tastier than the one I was served.

So far, I've made three dishes from On the Curry Trail. The Pork Meatballs in a Cream Curry Sauce (Boller i karri from Denmark) were delicious and comforting on a late winter evening. The Wok-Seared Curried Fried Rice was probably the best fried rice I've ever made (see photo). I substituted bok choy for the called-for cabbage because I had some to use up. Also, the original recipe is vegan, but I added some leftover grilled chicken breast. I didn't worry about my changes because, as Iyer says, "in a food culture like China's nothing is wasted." My changes were in the right spirit.

The third dish was slow-cooked chickpeas with saffron (Hommos zafaran from the Mideast). This too was delicious and had just the right heat level. I'm so glad I made the suggested scallion-mint relish; as Mr. BFR said, it really made the dish special (see the photo). I have many more recipes marked to try, like the Coronation Curried Chicken Salad with Apricots, Red Lentils with Ginger, and Curry Noodles with Shrimp.

Recommendation: If you like curry in all its many forms, Raghavan Iyer's On the Curry Trail is for you. Note that no matter what your diet--gluten free, vegetarian, vegan, or meat eater--you'll find plenty of recipes to try.

I wasn't sure which recipe to share because each one is accompanied by additional helpful information, like history, tips, and/or variations. Instead, I'm sharing a spread from the book (click to enlarge) that includes a recipe for Berbere, a spice mix from several countries in Africa. The spread also shows you one of the bright, cheery drawings you'll find throughout the cookbook.

Note: The scan is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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2 Tried-and-True Recipes (Weekend Cooking)

2023-03-04T06:01:00.007-05:00

Don't you just love it when you find recipes that you're happy to make many times over? Today I'm sharing two such recipes. The first is from a cookbook and the other is from a website.

I can't believe that I've never written about the cookbook Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners by Gina Homolka (Clarkson Potter, 2021). I have much confidence in Skinnytaste, I bought this cookbook sight unseen. My instincts were right--Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners has become a much-used cookbook in my house.

Instead of writing a full review, I'll just quickly note some of the features I always like about Homolka's cookbooks: each recipe is marked for special diets (like dairy free, gluten free, and vegan) and comes with nutritional information. Homolka also includes serving suggestions, tips on buying ingredients, and full-color photos.

Here are some of the recipes we've made more than once: from Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners: Hawaiian BBQ-Inspired Drumsticks, Beef and Broccoli, Cajun Shrimp Dinner, and Un-Fried Falafel. In our opinion, though, the true winner of of the cookbook is the recipe for My Signature Wings (see recipe below). We make this at least once a month and have yet to get tired of it. The recipe in the book is very similar to Homolka's Skinny Buffalo Wings on her website, but there are subtle differences. I recommend the one I'm sharing here.

---------------------------

Have you ever used the website Food.com? I came across it just in the last year when looking for a chicken breast recipe that would use up some whipping cream I had left over from another dish. That's when I discovered Chicken Breasts in Lemon Cream Sauce. This is incredibly delicious made exactly according to the recipe. I've also followed the method provided in one of the comments for assembling the chicken ahead of time if you want to serve it to guests.

The original suggests serving over pasta. We like it over wide egg noodles, but I've also used brown rice (and GF flour) when serving this to gluten-free friends. Leftovers heat up okay the next day for lunch, but the chicken ends up a bit overdone, so you might want to think about that if you're serving fewer people. One trick I do is take two chicken breasts and cut them in half horizontally. That way we usually end up with only one small piece for lunch the next day.

I don't have a photo of the finished dish, and the ones submitted to Food.com don't really do it justice. You'll have to just believe me here.

--------------------------

We absolutely love the following chicken wing recipe. Here are some notes: (1) I mix the marinade in a plastic zipper-locking bag and then add the chicken. (2) I don't preheat my air fryer. (3) I cook the chicken 12 minutes, use tongs to turn each piece over, and then cook for 12 minutes more. The wings are perfect every time. We have a large air fryer basket and can fit 18-20 pieces in one layer. (4) The photo is mine.

My Signature Wings
From Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners
Serves 4

20 pieces chicken wing portions (drumettes and wingettes; about 40 ounces)
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2-1/2 tablespoons Frank's RedHot Original Sauce
1/2 tablespoon (1 packet) sazon seasoning with achiote
1-1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon adobo seasoning
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

In a large bowl toss the chicken wings with the remaining ingredients. Marinate for at least 10 minutes or up to overnight in the refrigerator (the longer the better).

Remove the wings from the marinade and discard the marinade. Working in batches if needed, place the wings in the air fryer basket in a single layer. Cook at 400F until the skin is browned and the chicken is cooked through, 22 to 25 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through. (Note you can cook the wings in one batch if you prefer. Just add 10 to 15 minutes to the cooking time and shake the basket 3 to 4 times throughout cooking.) Serve immediately.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a mini review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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A Tale of Two Kitchens (Documentary; Weekend Cooking)

2023-02-25T06:01:00.008-05:00

I'm not quite sure how I missed this gem of a documentary, which--according to IMDb--came out in 2019.

A Tale of Two Kitchens, directed by Trisha Ziff, looks at two sister restaurants: Contramar in Mexico City and Cala in San Fransico. Chef-owner Gabriela Cámara's restaurants may share fundamentals, but those concepts are manifested in slightly different ways in Mexico and the US. Cámara's menus feature fresh seafood with the idea of transporting diners to the beach through their meals. The dishes feature fresh ingredients and Mexican flavors and are presented beautifully.

Though the restaurants and the food are important elements of the documentary, A Tale of Two Kitchens is really about the staff and a work culture of found family. In Contramar (Mexico City), the staff puts mutual help and support, both on and off the job, at the center. Workers are looking for a better life and a way to give that better life to their children.

In Cala (San Francisco), there is very much a sense of second chances. Everyone is given the opportunity to make a fresh start, and the staff includes ex-convicts, immigrants, and recovering addicts. People are hired on their own merits, not on what they did in the past. In both restaurants, workers are given respect, friendship, and the possibility of a bright future.

In just 29 minutes, A Tale of Two Kitchens gives a unique perspective on how restaurants--and any business for that matter--can be run. Everyone deserves dignity and respect in the workplace. Chef Gabriela Cámara proves it can be done.

If you take a look at the trailer (below), you'll learn one of the sad truths of how many (most?) Americans think of their brethren south of the border. A Tale of Two Kitchens can be streamed on Netflix

Note: photo from Nextflix.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Mostly Veggies by Brittany Mullins (Weekend Cooking)

2023-02-18T06:01:00.008-05:00

Hi all. Look who's back! I have no excuses for why I'm on the struggle bus with blogging and with social media in general. *shrug* I'll get out of my slump one of these days.

Today I'm talking about a cookbook that has a lot of good information and solid recipes, especially for those of you who may be looking for help with meal planning, meal prepping, and vegetable-heavy dishes. Thanks to Voracious and the Voracious Ambassador program for sending me a review copy of Brittany Mullins's Mostly Veggies (publishing soon).

As you might expect, Mullin begins Mostly Veggies by sharing her thoughts on the meaning of "healthy eating" and why she's interested in vegetable-forward meals. The early chapters provide a four-step method for meal prepping and planning, including tips on batch cooking, descriptions of helpful tools and small appliances, lists of pantry items, and the all-important instructions for storing and reheating your food.

One super feature is the meal plan chapter. Mullins provides four week-long meal plans (one for each season) along with prep timelines and shopping lists for each one.

As you page through Mostly Veggies, you'll be able to target the dishes that are right for you and your family because each recipe is accompanied by nutrition data and dietary data (gluten-, dairy-, and/or egg-free). Many cooks will be grateful that, when appropriate, Mullin highlights which ingredients can be prepped ahead. No more guessing.

The recipes in Mostly Veggies are grouped by both meal (such as breakfast and smoothies) and by technique or type of dish (for example sheet pan meals, one-pan dishes, and main-dish salads). The recipe directions are easy to follow and include storage, prep, serving, and reheating instructions as needed. For the most part, Mullins avoids vegetarian meat substitutes and uses commonly found ingredients. Her focus is on real, unprocessed foods, though she doesn't shy from canned beans, frozen cauliflower rice, and the like.

To give you an idea of what's in Mostly Veggies, here's one recipe from each chapter:

Veggie Quiche with Sweet Potato Crust (Breakfast)
Coffee Date Smoothie (Smoothies)
Lentil Taco Salad Bowls (Meal-Size Salads)
20-Minute Veggie Lo Mein Bowl (Bowl Meals)
Lemony Fall Harvest Sheet Pan Meal (Sheet Pan Meals)
Italian-Style Stuffed Bell Peppers (One Pan Meals)
Tamari Roasted Almonds (Smacks + Treats)
Spinach Muffins (Meal Prep for Littles)

Mullins's recipes are sure to have wide appeal, making it easy to incorporate them into almost any household's meal rotation.

Recommendation: Brittany Mullin's Mostly Veggies is geared to less-experienced cooks and those who are looking for help transitioning to the idea of meal planning and prepping. Mostly Veggies is also a good fit for anyone who is making the switch to a more plant-based diet that puts fresh vegetables and complex carbs at the forefront.

Note that experienced cooks and meal preppers will surely pick up a few tips and tricks and will likely add a recipe or two to their repertoire. However, if you're in this category, I suggest taking a look at the cookbook before buying.

While waiting out the few weeks until Mostly Veggies is available to buy, visit Brittany Mullins's website Eating Bird Food. There, you'll find a link for pre-ordering the cookbook and you also have a chance to learn more about Mullins and to try some of her recipes. Or you can give the following main-dish salad a try.

Greek Couscous Salad
Serves 4
Dairy Free (with modification); Egg Free

1 cup whole-wheat couscous
2 cups baby arugula or spinach, chopped
1/2 cup dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1 cup diced cucumber
10 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
1/2 cup canned cannellini beans
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese or plant-based feta cheese
Cracked black pepper to taste (optional)

White Balsamic Dressing

1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Cook the couscous according to package instructions. Fluff with a fork (or drain, if using pearl couscous) and transfer to a large bowl to cool.

While the couscous cools, make the dressing by whisking together all the ingredients in a small bowl or jar.

To the bowl with the couscous, add the arugula, sun-dried tomatoes, cucumber, olives, beans, and feta. Add the dressing and toss again. Taste and season with pepper, if desired

Serve immediately: Divide the salad into 4 bowls and enjoy, or chill before serving.

Meal Prep: Divide the salad into 4 meal prep containers and enjoy cold.

Store: in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz (Weekend Cooking)

2023-01-28T06:01:00.008-05:00

Happy Saturday! Last week Mr. BFR had dental surgery, which meant a week of soft(ish) foods. I made mac 'n' cheese, soup, an oven-baked tofu, and other easy to chew dishes. Fortunately, the surgery went well, and the only restrictions he has for the next few weeks are no seeds, nuts, or crunchy foods. I can work around that.

This week I'm talking about Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz, a cookbook I received as a member of the Abrams Dinner Party. Spoiler alert: to be honest, this cookbook was a bit of a challenge for me.

The first thing to know about this cookbook is that title and cover photo of Fake Meat are a bit misleading. Moskowitz's recipes are meant to mimic a typical American omnivore diet, rather than rely on store-bought vegetarian meat products.

Inside Fake Meat, you'll find vegan, home-made versions of bacon, meatloaf, fried chicken, beef stew, fried eggs, and even lox. Moskowitz goes the distance and provides recipes for all the extras you'll need to make the meal complete, such as vegan versions of sour cream, ranch dressing, puff pastry, and Parmesan cheese.

Fake Meat is a cookbook specifically geared to people who are vegan but still want to enjoy the foods they likely grew up with. You'll find the expected veggie burger, but did you know you could make vegan lobster rolls? The recipe is based on parsnips. The schnitzel recipe uses cauliflower steaks, and the pork chops are really homemade seitan.

Vegans will be familiar with most of the ingredients needed for the recipes in Fake Meat, such as nuts, kala namak, tempeh, TVP, jackfruit, and agar-agar. Even the more unusual ingredients will be easy to find, such as beet powder and pea protein.

I made the mushroom bacon (see recipe below) and the dilly chickpea egg salad. I also marked a couple others to try, like the lox made from carrot strips.

Here are my thoughts on the bacon. I've always had trouble crisping things up in my oven--for example, I can't make crispy chickpeas and my oven-dried tomatoes never really dry--so I'm not sure why I thought I'd end up with dry and crispy mushrooms. In any case, the baked mushrooms tasted vaguely bacony but wouldn't fool a meat eater. On the other hand, fake bacon is a handy trick: put it out on a baked-potato bar for your vegan friends. If I make this recipe again, I'll use my air-fryer.

The fake egg salad was tasty and easy to make. The dish gets its eggy flavor from the kala namak (an Indian salt), which can also be used in tofu dishes and (so I've been told) even on fruit (?). My general conclusion was this: I have recipes for a bunch of chickpea salads, and the Fake Meat version, though good, is not likely to be my go-to.

Note too that both dishes were on the salty side for our tastes. If I made either again, I'd start with half the called-for salt.

Recommendation: Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz would be a good choice for vegans who crave hearty, classic dishes. I bet people who keep kosher and those who have dairy issues will find a few tricks and tips for broadening their range of dishes. I, however, don't see myself reaching for this cookbook. When I want a vegetarian meal (I'm an omnivore), I'm looking for recipes that put vegetables on center stage. If I'm craving a meat dish, then I make meat. If you're at all curious about this cookbook, I suggest checking it out of the library before buying it.

Pantry Mushroom Bacon
Makes 1 cup

1 (16 oz) package sliced cremini mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1½ teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons liquid smoke
1 tablespoon nutritional yeast flakes

Toss the mushrooms with the olive oil and salt in a medium bowl. Let sit for 1 hour until they release their juices.

Preheat the oven to 350F (175C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Drain the mushrooms of excess liquid in a colander and return them to the mixing bowl. Sprinkle with liquid smoke and toss to coat.

Transfer the mushrooms to the prepared baking sheet and spread out in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring the mushrooms halfway through. Remove from the oven and lower the temperature to 325F (165C).

Sprinkle the mushrooms with nutritional yeast and use a thin spatula to toss and coat. Bake for another 15 minutes. The mushrooms should be crispy and firm.

Let cool on the baking sheet before using. They can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Comments

It defiantly sounds interesting to me as a vegan! ... by gluten Free A_Z Blog https://www.blogger.com/profile/05651624214552275164
This would not even get a look in at our house at ... by Marg https://www.blogger.com/profile/13508430635744720721
This has been popping up on several sites recently... by Jackie McGuinness https://www.blogger.com/profile/15946085131678256211
Great review! I have read a few books like this on... by Melynda@Scratch Made Food! https://www.blogger.com/profile/17924210552692980145
We are big fans of mushrooms so I like the recipe ... by Tina https://www.blogger.com/profile/08553212447308502910

Three Recipes and a Cookbook (Weekend Cooking)

2023-01-14T06:01:00.011-05:00

Happy Saturday! In today's post, I'm sharing some recent successful recipes and one new cookbook.

In my never-ending quest for interesting lunches (see last week's post), I came across a recipe for a deconstructed egg roll. It looked easy to make and delicious. In just about a half hour I was able to meal-prep this dish, divide it into four portions, and pop into the refrigerator for lunches. It reheated beautifully in the microwave, and Mr. BFR and I agreed I should make it again. The Egg Roll in a Bowl comes from the site Sweet Peas and Saffron (hit the link to get the recipe).

I made one change: I don't keep monk fruit in the house and decided to just omit the sugar altogether. We didn't miss it. At the end of the recipe, you'll find some options/variations: I used ground beef, broccoli slaw, and tamari. Note that in step 4, I made sure the slaw mix didn't get too soft; I knew we were going to reheat the dish, and I didn't want it to lose its crunch completely. Also, I sprinkled on the garnishes once I divided up the portions, just as a matter of convenience and so I wouldn't have to remember to do so later. This was a win.

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During this past fall I had a hankering for sausage rolls. I used to make them all the time, but they slipped off my radar. When looking for a recipe online to double-check baking time and temperature, I came across Spiced Sausage Rolls from Indian for Everyone by Hari Ghotra (click for the recipe). Although I've made many a sausage roll without a recipe, I thought I'd give this one a try.

Here's what I did: I used olive oil instead of rapeseed. My green chili was a jalapeno. I used pork sausage and added the optional chili powder. Next, I interpreted the "large pinch" of coriander leaves as a few sprigs. Note that salt is mentioned in the directions but doesn't appear in the ingredients.

I use Trader Joe's all-butter puff pastry when it's available. It comes in two portions; I worked with one at a time, rolling each out to the correct thickness, but not measuring. I divided the meat mixture in half and rolled each puff pastry sheet into a log, placing it seam side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. After refrigerating, I cut each roll into 8 pieces, spread them around the pan, and then brushed with the egg wash. I baked 40 min, rotating the pan halfway through.

When I make sausage rolls for lunches, I let them cool completely before refrigerating, and we eat them cold for lunch. Puff pastry doesn't always heat up well. Note that you can use whatever ground meat you have on hand and mix in any spice or seasoning combo you want. Use the linked recipe for baking instructions.

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Right after the new year, I was looking through our meat freezer and saw a boneless pork roast that I needed to cook up. I decided to make one of my all-time favorite dinners, chile verde. I don't have a go-to recipe, but remembered that Alpana from GypsyPlate (she used to participate in Weekend Cooking) had a Chile Verde recipe on her site. I followed the pressure cooker instructions, but Alpana includes slow cooker and stove top directions too. I didn't change a thing in this recipe, except I used Wegman's roasted salsa verde instead of making my own. This was incredibly good. I now have a go-to chile verde recipe. Seriously, give it a try. (I forgot to photograph mine).

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Finally, the nice people at America's Test Kitchen sent me a copy of their Complete Guide to Healthy Drinks. I make a smoothie almost every day, and I'm really looking forward to giving some of the recipes in this book a try.

As it says on the cover, the cookbook includes all kinds of drinks: smoothies, juices, teas, tisanes, fermented drinks, flavored water, shrubs, spritzers, hot drinks, homemade non-dairy "milks," and broths. As you'd expect from ATK, there is also a section on equipment, so you can feel confident when buying. Don't miss the sections on ingredients and storage and the many very helpful features on techniques.

Here are some drinks I've marked to try: watermelon-lime agua fresca (I bet that's so refreshing in the summer), cafe mocha smoothie (with avocado and cocoa powder), old-fashioned mulled cider (hello, fall!), orange creamsicle smoothie (with carrots and yogurt), and spicy mango smoothie (dairy free but with a bit of cayenne). If it's America's Test Kitchen, you know it's good!

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Comments

I made Joy Bauer's Egg Roll in a Bowl recipe t... by (Diane) bookchickdi https://www.blogger.com/profile/16640913682123489734
Ive made a similar type recipe for the eggrolls. I... by gluten Free A_Z Blog https://www.blogger.com/profile/05651624214552275164
Everything looks wonderful! by Melynda@Scratch Made Food! https://www.blogger.com/profile/17924210552692980145
I will try the egg rolls in a bowl, it gets around... by Jackie McGuinness https://www.blogger.com/profile/15946085131678256211
Those sausage rolls look amazing. Love the Trader... by Tina https://www.blogger.com/profile/08553212447308502910
Plus 2 more...

Dairy Hollow House Soup & Bread by Crescent Dragonwagon (Weekend Cooking)

2023-01-07T06:01:00.000-05:00

Happy new year to all of you! I hope your holidays and holiday cooking were fabulous.

Today I want re-introduce you to one of my favorite cookbook authors. I first wrote about Crescent Dragonwagon on my blog in 2009! One of the cookbooks I raved about was her wonderful Dairy Hollow House Soup & Bread cookbook. I bought my hardcover edition in 1992, when the cookbook was first published by Workman. Over the years, I am still cooking from Soup & Bread, and my copy has a permanent place on the kitchen bookshelf, where only my most-loved and most-used cookbooks live.

Last fall, I was surprised and thrilled to learn that the University of Arkansas Press published a 30th Anniversary Edition of the Soup & Bread cookbook so a whole new generation of cooks can fall in love with it. Thanks to them and to Crescent for sending me the updated edition.

Oh, um, let me step back a minute. The recipes in Soup & Bread are so good and so solid that the only major change to the new cookbook is a new introduction, in which Crescent tells us more about the history of the Dairy Hollow Inn, her life since the inn closed, and her thoughts on contemporary ingredients and ways of eating, and information on the Writers' Colony at Dairy Hollow.

Don't skip the intro, because this is where you'll find tips for converting recipes to gluten-free, vegetarian, and/or vegan and tips for working with store-bought produce. After that, the anniversary edition is a reprint of the near-perfect original cookbook.

If you've been around for a while, you know I'm always on the look-out for lunch ideas. Even after 38 years of working from home, I have few go-tos. Here's where soup--and this cookbook--comes to the rescue. I've learned that if I make a pot of soup once a week and save it specifically for lunches (and the occasional, "oops we need something for dinner" nights), we're eating well all year round. This is why Soup & Bread is in steady use at my house.

So what's inside the covers of the cookbook? First up are the chapters on stocks and flavor boosters (what we now call umami). I admit, I don't always make my own stock, but when I do, I'm usually starting with one of Crescent's recipes. The following chapters focus on chicken, fish, vegetables, a basic soup with variations, bean soups, gumbos, dairy soups, fruit soups and nut soups. But don't stop reading there! Soup & Bread ends with a bread chapter (yeast, muffins, rolls, biscuits) and a salad chapter (with some excellent dressings).

I was looking through my stained and well-used Soup & Bread cookbook this week and thought I'd share some recipes and proof of how often I use it.

The Mushroom Barley Soup recipe page is so stained, the page is wrinkled.
One of the places Soup & Bread opens up to is the Italian-Style soup recipe, perfect for using summer veggies and herbs.
Another crease in the book is at the Cuban Black Bean Soup. I've written in instructions for making this in my pressure cooker.
I have three big stars on the page for Greek Lentil and Spinach Soup with Lemon.
I have notes on almost all the ingredients for the Harira recipe. I remember wanting to make it but not really having all the needed ingredients in the house; I recorded my substitutions.
There's a permanent bookmark at the Greek Navy Bean Soup recipe.
There's another crease at the Cream of Leek, Herb, and Garden Lettuce Soup. It's a godsend when there's just too much lettuce in the house or garden.
The page for Rabbit Hill Inn Oatmeal-Molasses Bread has flour in the spine, and I've made some notes for using a machine for kneading and for making 1 loaf and 3 loaves.
Finally, I found the well-used page with the Whole-Wheat Butterhorns recipe. The notes on that page include when I served them to guests.

I can't recommend The Dairy Hollow House Soup & Bread Cookbook by Crescent Dragonwagon more highly. Any cookbook that stands the test of time--30 years!--in my kitchen and in kitchens everywhere, deserves a place in yours too. No matter your dietary concerns, you'll find plenty of recipes to nourish you and your family and friends. Take advantage of this anniversary edition so you too can have a pot of soup simmering on the stove.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Comments

Union Strong

2022-12-08T06:01:00.018-05:00

As a long-time freelancer in the publishing sphere, I stand in solidarity with the HarperCollins Union and will not promote, review, feature or buzz HC books until an agreement for a fair contract has been reached.

Note: I will, however, continue to support HC authors by buying and reading their books. I'll post my reviews and thoughts on those books once the strike has ended.

Mastodon" target="_blank">Comments have been turned off for this post.

AudioFile Magazine's 2022 Best Audiobooks in Science Fiction & Fantasy

2022-12-05T06:01:00.008-05:00

Every December, I eagerly look forward to reading all the best-in-books lists so I can add titles to my own reading wish list. Of all the many such lists, my favorite by far are the audiobook genre lists compiled by AudioFile Magazine.

As many of you know, I've had a long association with AudioFile, both as a freelance reviewer and as a contributing editor. Thanks to that partnership, I'm very excited to share with you the magazine's picks for the Best Science Fiction & Fantasy Audiobooks for 2022.

Before we get to this year's best SFF audiobooks, here's some background information. AudioFile's lists are unique in that they take into consideration the entire audiobook experience, which is headlined by the narrator's performance. In the case of fiction, the magazine's editors weigh such things as the narrator's use of voices to differentiate characters, their sense of pacing and tension, their ability to convey the emotional heart of the story, and their delivery of humor and dialogue. When an audiobook is narrated by more than one voice actor, AudioFile's editors take a look at how well the performances blend, contrast, or compliment each other.

Each one of the six Best Science Fiction & Fantasy Audiobooks for 2022 tells a great story, which is made all the better by an outstanding audiobook narrator or full cast. Here, then are the year's best SFF audiobooks to add to your listening queue. Click the titles to read the AudioFile Magazine review.

The Atlas Six by Olivie Blake (Macmillan Audio; 16 h) is the first in the Atlas science fiction series, which involves a competition and a secret library. The audiobook is performed by a full cast of narrators—Steve West, David Monteith, Damian Lynch, Caitlin Kelly, Andy Ingall, Munirih Grace, Siho Ellsmore, and James Patrick Cronin—each of whom take on a different character. Six individuals with magical talents are recruited to be part of an elite society. They have a year to prove themselves worthy: five will get in, one will die. The narrators won AudioFile's attention for capturing the characters' personalities and signaling their flaws, strengths, and growth.

A Court of Mist and Fury by Sarah J Maas (GraphicAudio; 16 h) is the second entry in the Court of Thorns and Roses series, which is about how a teenage human copes after she's been transported to the world of the Faeries while hunting in the woods. This audiobook edition is a full-cast dramatization, performed by Melody Muze, Anthony Palmini, Henry W. Kramer, and others. The audiobook, which was released in two parts (the linked review is to part 1), includes sound effects and music to create an immersive experience. The AudioFile reviewer was particularly impressed with how the narrators homed in on the characters' emotional centers.

Even though I Knew the End by C. L. Polk (Recorded Books; 4 h) is a stand-alone mashup of fantasy and noir mystery performed by January LaVoy. If Helen, a detective with magical abilities, can find the vampire who's terrorizing Chicago, she hopes to be able to get out of her deal with the devil. One major problem: she has only three days. If she succeeds, she might have a chance to find a happy future with the woman she loves. LaVoy works her own magic, enrapturing listeners with her nuanced and thoughtful performance of this twisty historical fantasy.

Maxine Justice: Galactic Attorney by Daniel Schwabauer (Oasis Audio; 9 h) is a fast-paced legal thriller played out on a galactic stage and read by Aimee Lilly. Maxine, a struggling personal injury lawyer, gets the chance to take a high-profile case representing an alien medical researcher who claims to have a miracle cure for all that ails humans. Even in the future, big pharma isn't really looking to heal the sick, and Max soon finds herself on their enemies list. Lilly's spot-on delivery of Max's humor, feistiness, and determination makes this audiobook a winner.

Moon Witch, Spider King by Marion James (Penguin Audio; 31 h) is the second installment in the Dark Star trilogy. This audiobook puts a powerful 177-year-old female witch on center stage, where she provides an alternate perspective on the magical African-inspired world introduced in the first audiobook by a male tracker. Narrator Bahni Turpin's talents are in full bloom, as she gives each character a unique and appropriate voice all the while honoring the pace and rhythm of the author's style. The audiobook takes listeners along as the witch discovers and then learns to use her powers.

Witches Abroad by Terry Pratchett (Penguin Audio; 10 h) is the twelfth entry in the beloved Discworld series, which takes listeners on adventures across a 10,000-mile-wide (and disc-shaped) world. This new audiobook edition of the story of how a godmother-witch must prevent a marriage in order to save her kingdom is principally narrated by Indira Varma, who delivers on the humor and picks up on the characters' unique traits. Peter Serafinowicz and Bill Nighy perform supporting roles. Both new and old fans of the Discworld universe will be delighted by this audiobook.

To learn about the top audiobooks of the year in other genres, be sure to visit AudioFile's Best of 2022 webpage. For exclusive interviews with the narrators of these winning audiobooks, tune in (and subscribe) to the magazine's Behind the Mic podcast.

Photo credits: January LaVoy photo by Todd Cerveri; Bahni Turpin photo Linda Posnick.

5 Books for Food and Drink Lovers (Weekend Cooking)

2022-12-03T06:01:00.019-05:00

Hello, my friends. Yes, it's been a long time. Lately, I've been talking about cookbooks on Instagram instead of here--no particular reason except I've been feeling lazy about writing.

Today I want to talk about five books that could make good presents this holiday season. I haven't cooked out of any of these, but I liked what I saw when I was looking through them. I hope you find one or two that catch your attention. (Thanks to the publishers for the review copies.)

The first book is The Christmas Movie Cookbook by Julia Rutland (Simon Element; Sept.). If you wait all year for the chance to indulge in holiday movie viewing, then you pretty much have to look for a copy of this cookbook. Before you plan your movie viewing party, take a look at the holiday menu ideas and entertaining tips before jumping into the recipes.

The cookbook is organized by common categories (such as drinks, salads, appetizers, and mains), and each recipe is linked to a specific holiday film. The introductions to the recipes explain the connections for those of us who aren't up on all their Christmas movie trivia. For example, Pigs in a Blanket is for Shrek the Halls, Old-Fashioned Meatloaf is for A Christmas Story, Really Rich Hot Chocolate is for The Polar Express, Linzer Star Cookies are for Die Hard, and Garlic and Herb Crusted Roast Beef is for How the Grinch Stole Christmas. Recommended for those who love all things Christmas.

Next is The Complete Guide to Food Photography by Lauren Caris Short (RockyNook; Sept.). I was very excited to receive a review copy of this book because I can use some serious help with my food photography. This book may be slightly above my level in terms of gear and technical knowledge, but I think I'll be able to pick up some good tips.

Chapters cover lighting, composition, styling, storytelling, editing, and finding your personal style. Though I don't own special lights or diffusers (and don't have plans to buy them), I was interested in learning about backgrounds, creating shapes (triangles, swirls, diagonals), finding the texture, and creating movement. I also plan to study the editing chapter, so I can at least learn to make the most of what I photograph and the apps I'm using for editing. Recommended for those who wish to take their food photography to the next level.

Next up is Good Housekeeping's 1, 2, 3 Cook! My First Cookbook (Hearst Home Kids; Oct), which includes 50 recipes geared to kids 4 to 8 years old. For brand new cooks, it starts with basic techniques, like how to measure, how to roll out dough, and how to grease a pan. Then it turns to the recipes.

The book designers picked bright colors and a larger font making it easy and fun for young readers to follow. Besides the ingredients and method, each recipe includes a list of needed tools and an estimated cooking time. Throughout the directions are icons that alert young cooks and their adult supervisors to steps that might require extra care (hot pans, sharp knives). The cookbook includes lots of helpful kitchen advice, such as why and how to wash greens, how to hull a strawberry, and how to use a whisk. Fun line drawings and corny jokes make the book a delight to use.

The best part about this kids' cookbook is the recipes themselves. I love that the book teaches children to make real food that anyone of any age would be happy to make, serve, and eat. Examples are chicken salad sandwiches, smoothies, cinnamon rolls, nachos, flank steak with chimichurri, pasta salad, and smoothies. I don't have little ones to cook with, but I'm looking forward to trying some of the recipes. Recommended for anyone who wants to learn to cook, but it's a great pick if you have interested youngsters in your life.

Fourth is Eating Together, Being Together by Julian Clauss-Ehlers and Caroline Clauss-Ehlers (Princeton Architectural Press; Sept.). The husband-wife authors--he's a Michelin-starred chef and she's an award-winning psychologist--want to help busy families find a way to make mealtimes stress-free (or at least less stressful) and to ensure they support family bonding.

The book is full of tips for dealing with issues almost all households face, like trying to feed picky eaters and trying to engage teenagers in meaningful conversation. In addition, each recipe comes with conversation starters and activities for the youngest of kids up to preteens and teens and even for the adults in the household.

The recipes highlight fresh foods and plenty of vegetables, but you'll also find some sweet (fruit-forward) treats and yummy snacks. All the dishes look easy to make and run the full range from grilled cheese to Cajun-style tilapia. Suggested side dishes accompany the main-dish recipes. Recommended for families looking for mealtime help and bonding ideas.

Finally, we have Midcentury Cocktails by Cecelia Tichi (NYU Press; Nov.). This is Tichi's third book about cocktails popular during a specific historical era. This book focuses on the postwar years in America: think Mad Men, the three-martini lunch, the baby boom, the cold war, and the modern housewife.

Of course, the book includes cocktail recipes, but at its core is a cultural history of America. Chapters cover Playboy clubs, bachelor pads, the bar car on commuter trains, the Jet Set, and more. Tichi starts each section with a look at contemporary culture; for example, in the "Green Book" chapter, she cites James Baldwin's story of trying to get a drink at Chicago's O'Hare airport. The chapter about the era's authors and writers delves into women's issues as well as the popularity of the cocktail party.

The drinks recipes that end each chapter are classics: gin martini, brandy Alexander, Tom Collins, the Grasshopper, and the Irish Fix. The book includes New Yorker-like drawings and ends with a bibliography for further inquiry. Recommended for those who like food history, cocktails, and/or American cultural history.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Take It Easy by Gaby Dalkin of What's Gaby Cooking (Weekend Cooking)

2022-10-15T06:01:00.019-04:00

Those of you who have been reading my blog for a while will recognize Gaby Dalkin, from What's Gaby Cooking. I reviewed her first cookbook, What's Gaby Cooking, in 2018. Her second cookbook, Eat What You Want, came out in 2020. I've cooked many recipes from those books over the years.

Dalkin's newest cookbook is Take It Easy, which came out a couple of weeks ago. I received a copy because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review group. The subtitle of the cookbook is "Recipes for Zero Stress Deliciousness," and I am here to tell you that the subtitle doesn't lie. Everything I made from Take It Easy was simple to make and really tasty.

Dalkin's attitude toward cooking and entertaining has evolved as her life and the world have changed. Now that she's a mom, she doesn't have the time or desire to spend hours in the kitchen away from her family. In addition, since the pandemic, she is--along with almost all of us--entertaining in a totally different way from before. Gatherings are ever more casual and more about spending time with friends than about making impressive dishes. Laid-back, though, doesn't mean no flavor; it just means a slightly different kind of cuisine.

What hasn't changed is Dalkin's commitment to "simple, fresh, flavorful food that you can feel really good about eating." Also note that easy doesn't always mean last minute. Many of the recipes get their flavors from do-ahead marinating or pickling, for example. Others benefit from prepping and assembling earlier in the day, so dinnertime itself comes together quickly and effortlessly. The recipes in Take It Easy require no fancy techniques and almost no specialty tools.

Take It Easy includes recipes for the whole day: from breakfast to after-dinner dessert. Dalkin uses familiar pantry items, like canned beans, pickled jalapenos, and canned crushed tomatoes when it makes sense. She's California based, and many ingredients reflect that, such as fresh herbs, specific types of heirloom cherry tomatoes, and fresh fish. I had no trouble finding acceptable replacements at my local grocery. For example, I'm not sure the orange-red tomatoes I got at Wegman's were Sun Golds, but they were the right size and color; that works for me.

Here are some recipes I made:

Crispy Chicken Stir-Fry, with garlic, ginger, and bok choy (see photo, taken before the bok choy wilted)
Sausage Sheet Pan Supper, with a variety of bell peppers, cherry tomatoes, and a Calabrian pepper vinaigrette
Aperol Tequila Spritz, made with lime juice and sparkling water
Korean BBQ-Inspired Meatloaf, with kimchi, gochujang, and finely chopped veggies
Creamy White Beans, with garlic, rosemary, and spinach topped with a Calabrian chile oil
Brussels Sprouts and Brie Gratin, which will absolutely make it a holiday dinner table around here (see photo)
Little Gem and Beet Salad, with a green tahini dressing

Everything, and I mean everything, was delicious. I've always loved Dalkin's salads, and I have a lot more marked to try. She definitely has a thing for cacio e pepe, because Take It Easy includes a handful of so-named recipes. I'm a fan, so no complaints here. Other members of the Abrams Dinner Party made the no-churn Tiramisu Ice Cream, and that one is on my list either for the holidays or for next summer. By all accounts, it's fabulous. Another winner has been the Cheesy Hamburger Helper-Style Pasta.

Vegetarians might turn to the Buffalo Cauliflower Bowls, Linguine al Limone, Castelvetrano and Artichoke Pizza, or the Spanish-ish Broccoli and Leek Omelet.

Recommendation: I'm a big fan of What's Gaby Cooking and of Gaby Dalkin's cookbooks, so I give Take It Easy two big thumbs up. Vegetarians will find a number of recipes to try and others that will take very little tweaking. Vegans may have less luck.

Here's a recipe that's on my list. Dalkin suggests serving these mushrooms with steak or roasted salmon; I think they'd be great with any simple meat. I'll be using a mix of store-bought mushrooms

Cheesy Roasted Mushrooms
Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds (910 g) wild mushrooms, trimmed and torn into large pieces, depending on size
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup (110 g) freshly shredded Gruyere cheese
Juice of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).

Place the torn mushrooms on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Drizzle with the oil and season with salt, black pepper, and crushed red pepper. Transfer the sheet pan into the oven and roast for 30 to 35 minutes until the mushrooms are fully cooked and the edges are crispy, tossing 15 minutes through.

Remove from the oven and sprinkle the cheeses on top.

Transfer the sheet pan back into the oven and roast for an additional 5 minutes until the cheese is fully melted. Remove the sheet pan from the oven, squeeze the lemon juice on top of the roasted mushrooms, and adjust the salt and black pepper as needed. Serve immediately.

Tip: You need ample room for roasting the mushrooms because otherwise they'll steam in the oven, and that's not what we're going for. If you find that your pan is too crowded and there's no space between the mushrooms, divide them between two sheet pans so you can achieve optimum crispy deliciousness.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Two New Cookbooks to Broaden Your Cooking Horizons (Weekend Cooking)

2022-10-08T06:01:00.017-04:00

Happy Saturday. Today I have two more cookbooks for you one came out last month and the other published just this week. Thanks to the publishers for the review copies.

I'm sure you're already familiar with Food52, the site that was developed to be "the one place you can see thousands of test kitchen-approved recipes, shop the kitchenware you need to make them, and discuss the results with like-minded people." Food52 was founded by Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, both well-respected figures in the food world. I have several of their cookbooks and subscribe to their newsletter.

Their newest cookbook is Food52 Simply Genius: Recipes for Beginners, Busy Cooks & Curious People written by Food52 founding editor Kristen Miglore (Ten Speed Press). The gorgeous photos are by James Ransom and the helpful illustrations are by Eliana Rodgers. No matter your comfort level in the kitchen and skill level while cooking, I guarantee this new cookbook will have something to teach you.

I love the troubleshooting guides (see to the left; click to enlarge), serving ideas, illustrations and photos of techniques, music suggestions, prep tips, time lines, and (of course) more. Food52 Simply Genius has your back, whether you're cooking simple beans and legumes or whipping up some chicken fennel quinoa porridge. Not sure how to tell if the shrimp is cooked perfectly? Just look at the handy photographs. Want to know why it's worth your time to boil potatoes before roasting them? Food52 Simply Genius has the answer. I truly appreciate the step-by-step photos that show the "key" techniques for success.

I made several recipes from Food52 Simply genius. Two of our favorites were Louisiana Barbecued Shrimp and the Sheet-pan Gnocchi with Chili Crisp and Baby Bok Choy. Throughout the book, the recipe directions are clear and easy to follow.

Recommendation: To paraphrase the subtitle: Food52 Simply Genius really is for every curious cook who wants to learn and improve their skills. Vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-free eaters will find appropriate recipes by looking in the index.

The second cookbook I tried this fall was The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook: 400 Authentic Everyday Recipes for the Home Cook by Margarita Carrillo Arronte (Phaidon Press). As promised by the subtitle, this cookbook is brimming with easy weekday (and weekend) recipes that will find their way into your regular rotation. Arronte is committed to showing the world that Mexican cuisine is much more than tacos and burritos; in fact, Mexican cuisine has been recognized as being "one of the most varied and sophisticated in the world." That variety is shown in the broad range of dishes included in this book.

If you really love the more familiar Mexican dishes, have no fear. Among the less well known recipes, Arronte includes several riffs on tamales, pico de gallo, corn soup, enchiladas, and the like. I was excited to see the mix of traditional and contemporary dishes and have several recipes marked to try.

Here are some things I really like about The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook: Each recipe begins with a list telling us where the dish is from (such as Mexico City or Veracruz), prep time, waiting time (chilling, marinating), cooking time, number of servings, diet (gluten free, dairy free, vegan), and other information (one pot, 5 ingredients, 30 minutes). The directions are clearly written and easy to follow. When needed, recipes come with a "chef's tip" to help guarantee success. Arronte includes serving suggestions for many of the dishes. At the back of the book you'll find a glossary of ingredients, recipe notes, and a detailed index.

What I didn't like: I wish some of the dishes were a little more boldly seasoned. I do not mean that every dish should have hot peppers, but in many cases, I wanted a little more than just salt and pepper. For those recipes, I simply added my own extra seasonings or herbs, so no big deal. My only other issue pertains to availability of the ingredients in my small town. Of course, that's not Arronte's fault, and she often suggests substitutes.

I found plenty of healthful vegetarian dishes to try in The Mexican Vegetarian, including Spicy Lentils with Vegetarian Sausages, White Bean Salad with Vegetables, and Red Bell Peppers with Potatoes and Saffron. Everything was good and easy to make, though, as I said, I did doctor up a few dishes; for example, I added some herbs and black pepper to the dressing for the bean salad.

Recommendation: If you're vegetarian or vegan or just looking for new vegetarian recipes, take a look at The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrilo Arronte. I strongly suggest that you borrow this from the library before you buy, just to make sure that it's a good fit for you.

Instead of typing out a recipe, I thought I share a spread from The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook (you may have to click the photo to enlarge it). Arronte's simple recipe and clear photos may encourage you to give homemade tortillas a try. I bet you like them much better than the corn tortillas from the grocery store.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review. Any quality issues are all on me. All rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

2 Cookbooks with Fresh Ideas for Nutritious, Yummy Meals (Weekend Cooking)

2022-10-01T06:01:00.015-04:00

We're finally done with our fall travels to visit family, and I've come home to a stack full of cookbooks to share with you. Today I'm sharing two that helped me put dinner on the table over the last few weeks.

Thanks to the publishers for providing me with review copies.

First up is the latest cookbook by one of my go-to authors: Dinner in One by Melissa Clark (Clarkson Potter). If you love delicious and easy one-dish dinners, then this is definitely the cookbook for you.

The recipes are grouped primarily by equipment (sheet pan, pressure cooker), but a few chapters focus on a course (pasta, soup), including one with one-bowl cake recipes.

After all our travels, I was less interested in dessert than I was in good eating, so I turned my attention to Clark's appealing and nutritious dinners.

One of the winners in the sheet pan chapter was the Glazed Tofu with Sweet Potatoes and Silky Red Peppers. In the introduction to the recipe, Clark writes: "If there's someone in your life who swears tofu is always boring and bland, this is the dish to change their mind." I'm here to say that this dinner did indeed change Mr. BFR's take on tofu. He even gladly ate the leftovers for lunch the next day!

We also liked the Spaghetti with Tuna, Capers, and Cherry Tomatoes from the pasta chapter and the Lemony Beef, Spinach, and Barley Soup from the pressure cooker chapter. I marked a ton of other recipes in Dinner in One for future dinners, such as Cheesy Meatball Parm with Spinach, Lemony Turkey and White Bean Soup with Winter Greens, and Garlicky Pork Chops with Cauliflower and Pomegranate.

The recipe introductions include helpful information, such as substitutions, side dishes, freezing information, and technique tips. Clark's directions are clear and easy to understand, and the recipes call for familiar ingredients.

Recommendation: I've trusted Melissa Clark's recipes for years, and her Dinner in One has a permanent place in my cookbook collection. Vegans, vegetarians, and gluten-free eaters will find a number of appropriate recipes.

I'm sure I don't have to tell you that the world's love affair with Mediterranean foods is still going strong. I'm fully on that bandwagon, so I was excited to pick up a copy of The Mediterranean Dish by Suzy Karadsheh (Clarkson Potter). In case you've never heard of Karadsheh, she's the cook and spirit behind the very popular website The Mediterranean Dish. It's her site that I turn to first when I'm looking for a good and reliable Mideastern recipe.

Because Karadsheh grew up in Port Said and married into an American-Mideastern family, her perspective of Mediterranean food has a cosmopolitan twist. I also love that she infuses her website and recipes with her personal attitude about food and life: "Eat with the seasons; use mostly whole foods; and above all else, share."

Cooks newish to Mediterranean cooking will appreciate Karadsheh's guide to ingredients and what to keep in the pantry. Don't worry, the ingredients may be new to you, but they aren't hard to find. Be sure to read the recipe intros, because they contain useful tips and Karadsheh's personal story behind some of the recipes.

You'll find recipes for every meal plus snacks and sauces in The Mediterranean Dish. I made a few dinners and a couple of salads, and each dish was a winner. The Tuesday Night Skillet Chicken Cutlets with Artichokes and Mushrooms (which I served over orzo) is a great choice for spring or fall. The Farro, Corn, and Cherry Tomato Salad with Basil Vinaigrette screams summer, but we had it for September lunches. We also really liked the Garlicky Spinach and Chickpea Soup with Lemon and Pecorino Romano and Sheet-Pan Smoky Chicken, Chickpeas, and Carrots.

Of course, I've marked many more recipes to try this winter. Here are a few: Easy Homemade Pita Bread (I'd love to try her version), Mama’s Citrus-Carrot Jam (sounds so interesting), Roasted Bell Pepper Boats with Orzo and Basil Vinaigrette (we love stuffed peppers), Wine-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cinnamon and Rosemary (I love shanks!), and Orange-Cardamom–Olive Oil Cake.

Recommendation: I've been making Suzy Karadsheh's recipes for years and recommend her debut cookbook, The Mediterranean Dish, without reservation. Vegetarians and vegans will find many recipes to add to their repertoire, and I think gluten-free eaters will find plenty to cook.

Instead of typing out a recipe, I decided to share one of Suzy Karadsheh's videos so you can get a sense of her and her style of cooking. The recipe demonstrated here is for a Moroccan-style vegetarian dinner.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

3 Cookbooks for Sourdough Breads (Weekend Cooking)

2022-09-17T06:01:00.014-04:00

I'm not telling you anything new when I say that interest in sourdough baking has skyrocketed in recent years. All three cookbooks featured today are focused on sourdough baking. Before I get to the books, I should tell you about my experience baking with sourdough. We love sourdough in the BFR household, and back when I used to bake bread almost daily, I had an active sourdough starter in my kitchen. At some point, when we stopped eating so much bread, I turned my attention to active dry yeast, which is where I've stayed for the last 20 years or so.

As sourdough has become popular again, I'm tempted to develop a starter and return to this style of baking. Perhaps this winter. In the meantime, I'm happy to read and learn from the many new sourdough cookbooks that have been published over the last couple of years.

Today, I introduce you to three that have caught my attention. Thanks to the publishers for the review copies of the following cookbooks. All three will be published in the next two weeks.

James Beard award winner Greg Wade oversees the bread program at Chicago's Publican Quality Bread. Wade is known for encouraging bakers to use organic grains and to support sustainable small farms. After taking note of the rising (heh) popularity of sourdough, he wrote his debut cookbook, Bread Head (W. W. Norton), with the goal of guiding and educating the newest generation of bread bakers.

Bread Head covers all the basics, offering tips on equipment, making sourdough starter, and buying and storing grains. Wade explains both the science and the art of bread baking, including details on how to use baker's percentages.

Besides sourdough bread recipes, Bread Head includes recipes for a few yeasted bakes as well as treats like doughnuts, galettes, and brownies. There's also a chapter on baking over wood or on a grill.

Some of the things I like about the cookbook are the glossaries of bread terms and grain types, the process guides (mixing, shaping, and so on), and great photos.

The recipes themselves are easy to follow and the ingredients are given three ways: weight, volume, and baker's percentages. The instructions are broken down by task (like mix, ferment, shape, proof) and include tips and help. Example recipes are Oat Cinnamon-Raisin Challah, Sorghum Blondies, Malted Rye Bread, Peach and Cashew Loaf, and Buckwheat and Thyme Loaf.

Recommendation: If you want to learn more about the art of sourdough bread baking, put Greg Wade's Bread Head on your list.

Yes, I know all the purists' thoughts on bread machines, but I own one and use it often. When I worked 60+ hours a week, it was a godsend, saving me time and cleanup. I use my machine for only kneading and rising; I shape the loaves by hand and bake in the oven. I'm also very hands-on during the mixing phase.

Bread machine queen Michelle Anderson has written a number of baking books and has perfected techniques for relying on the machine, including the baking. Anderson's newest book, Sourdough Breads from the Bread Machine (Harvard Common Press), is perfect for home bakers who love and depend on their machines.

Sourdough Breads from the Bread Machine starts with directions for making several sourdough starters, including a gluten free one. Anderson introduces different flours and grains and discusses various add-ins, such as cheeses, seeds, nuts, and fruits.

I'm especially impressed with the chapter focused adapting sourdough techniques for the bread machine. Anderson gives specific advice on types of machines and their cycles, provides a step-by-step guide to baking methods, anticipates bakers' questions, and includes a troubleshooting guide.

Sourdough Breads from the Bread Machine starts with basic recipes and then moves to loaves that use non-wheat flours and call for a variety of flavorings. There's also a chapter for hand-shaped bakes, including sweet treats. Some recipes are Black Walnut Rye, Garlic and Black Olives, Chocolate Cinnamon, Bleu Cheese and Bacon, and Herb Swirl Bread.

Recommendation: Put Sourdough Breads from the Bread Machine by Michelle Anderson on your list if you're looking to ramp up your bread machine skills.

If you do any kind of baking, then it's likely you've heard of James Beard award winner Ken Forkish. His newest cookbook, Evolutions in Bread (Ten Speed Press), is all about how he's adapted some of the breads and techniques from his Portland, Oregon, bakery for the home baker. His focus in this cookbook is on artisan pan breads that call for interesting grains and easy methods.

I love that most of the recipes in Evolutions in Bread are for only one loaf, perfect for small households and for those who like to bake often. The sourdough starter detailed in this book features Forkish's flour-saver method, which is easy to make and nurture.

The beginning chapters are all about ingredients, grains, milling, and equipment. Forkish clearly describes the needed methods and skills called for in the cookbook. His eight steps (with substeps) for baking bread are a gold mine of information for baking your best artisan loaves yet.

The chapters are divided by time and technique and include recipes for classic breads like Black Bread, Brioche, Pain du Levain, Country Bread, and Spelt Bread.

Recommendation: Pick up Evolutions in Bread by Ken Forkish to learn a unique starter and for an incredibly helpful guide to baking artisan loaves in a home kitchen.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Website Finds for Food Lovers (Weekend Cooking)

2022-08-20T06:01:00.010-04:00

Happy Saturday. It's been a long, long time since I wrote a Weekend Cooking post that included links to current-ish foodie posts I've found in my wanderings around the internet.

Last week, before the temperatures moderated, I put my air fryer front and center in my kitchen. I made chicken, stuffed peppers, creole shrimp, and this easy air fryer falafel recipe from the SkinnyTaste website. They were perfect for a hot summer evening, and I served mine in a pita with hummus, Greek yogurt, cucumbers, and some shredded cabbage. While these falafel aren't quite like the deep-fried ones you can get from a food truck or restaurant, they tasted good and made for a filling vegetarian dinner. The only hitch is remembering to make the "batter" ahead of time so you can refrigerate it for a couple hours before forming it into balls. Click the link for the recipe and watch the video for the general idea.

I know you've heard about Half-Baked Harvest because several members of the Weekend Cooking gang have written about Tieghan Gerard, the woman behind the website and the cookbooks. If Half-Baked Harvest is new to you, head on over to the website, look around, and sign up for their email newsletter. If you're on Instagram, you should definitely follow Tieghan. Anyway, a recent email from the site included a recipe for Brown Butter Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies. Okay, first off, I have a weakness for anything with brown butter. I also happen to like updated versions of childhood classics. This recipe hits both those buttons. Here are two more reasons these oatmeal cookies are my to-try list, they call for less sugar than traditional recipes, and Tieghan suggests topping them with flaky sea salt. OMG yum.

I'll finish up with four quick links.

Taste has an article about Kerala Cuisine from southern India and its rising popularity in America.
In case you missed the news, The Takeout has a piece on the brand new Girl Scout cookie: Raspberry Rally
Southern Living has turned its eye to fall with 12 cakes featuring fall flavors like nuts, pumpkin, and apples.
Eater has an article all about the "right amount" of garlic to use in your cooking.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

6 Books for Food and Wine Lovers

2022-08-06T06:01:00.025-04:00

Happy Saturday and Weekend Cooking day. Because it's been ridiculously hot here (as everywhere in the Northern Hemisphere), I haven't been overly motivated to cook or bake, and that has put me more than a little behind in my cookbook reviews.

Today I'm going to feature six food books that are on my radar. Three of these are for reading (or listening) and three are for cooking and baking. It may be a few weeks (or even into September) before I'll be ready to turn on the oven, but I should be able to tell you my thoughts on the foodie books before the end of summer.

Note that all these books were (or will be) published in 2022. I want to thank the publishers and publicists for the review copies. Because I haven't yet explored these books in depth, the following thoughts are based on my first impressions.

Mediterranean Small Plates by Clifford A. Wright (Harvard Common Press, August): Who doesn't love having substantial appetizers for dinner? In this cookbook, Wright takes us all the way around the Mediterranean Sea in small plates: from tapas in Spain to hors d'oeuvres in France; meze in Greece, Turkey, and the Balkans; and ending with mazza in the Mideast and North Africa. The opening chapters introduce us to the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet, how to make a balanced small-plate meal, and a list of ingredients to have on hand. The chapters explore each region separately, providing recipes, background info, tips, wine pairings, and more. The cookbook ends with almost 20 menus for small-plate meals for entertaining. Pretty much everyone will find more than a few recipes that will fit their dietary plan; I was impressed with the variety of flavors and types of dishes. Note too that many of the recipes are easy and quick enough for weeknight dinners.

Ultimate Food Atlas from National Geographic Kids (Hachette, June): I cannot wait to delve into this fun, colorful, and informative atlas. Each chapter focuses on a continent (the Australia chapter includes Oceania) plus there's a chapter dealing with climate change and the world food supply. Each chapter discusses a variety of topics pertaining to the continent (such as food production, festivals, and global issues) and includes descriptions and photos of regional foods. Instead of going country by country, the maps and sections home in on areas that share climatic, geographical, or ecological traits. Fun facts, recipes, activities, games, quizzes, and super graphics make the book a delight to look through and easy to read.

Bake by Paul Hollywood (Bloomsbury, July): In this cookbook, the world's favorite expert on all things baking shares his recipes for classic bakes: cakes, cookies, breads, pastries, and other desserts. I love to bake and am looking forward to the fall when I can try some of Hollywood's versions of naan bread, shortbread, brownie cheesecake, orange brioche, sausage rolls, bread pudding ... and well, just about everything! Beautiful photographs (some showing a step-by-step process) inspire me to don my apron, get out my pastry board, and start baking. While waiting for cooler temperatures, I plan to read through the cookbook and learn Hollywood's techniques and tweaks and tips for achieving my best bakes yet.

To Fall in Love, Drink This by Alice Feiring (Scribner, August): If you don't know, Feiring is a James Beard award winner for her wine journalism. Besides books and articles, she also writes The Feiring Line newsletter about natural wine (see her website for more). The essays and short pieces in this volume work together as a memoir. Among the stories Feiring shares are ones about her observant Jewish family and childhood, about how she discovered the world of wine, about winemakers and the industry, and about the men in her life. Her focus is on wines that are free from the many additives used in most mainstream wines. She also introduces us to various wine regions around the world and suggests wines to put on your to-buy lists. I plan to savor this collection, one essay at a time.

A Dish for All Seasons by Kathryn Pauline (Chronicle, August): I'm intrigued with the concept of this cookbook. Instead of dividing her recipes into four chapters (winter, spring, summer, fall), Pauline features a single dish and offers variations and transformations to fit the season. The main chapters are by meal or type of dish (breakfast, salads, sides); those chapters are organized by specific dishes. I'll illustrate the idea by focusing on one dish. Under "Mains" we find a section called "Sandwiches." Pauline describes her idea of a deli sandwich and then provides a grid for mixing and matching seasonal produce and flavors. Then she gives her best tips on how to create the "perfect" sandwich. Next she offers four recipes, one for each season. In this case, we find Shrimp Rolls, Boiled Corn, and Potatoes for summer, Falafel with Lemon Tahini Sauce and Lacto-Fermented Torshi for fall, a Meatball Sub with Caramelized Fennel for winter, and Bánh Mi for spring. Despite the examples I gave here, vegans, gluten-free eaters, and vegetarians will find plenty of recipes and seasonal combos to fit their needs. I'll likely use this cookbook before fall because I'd love to try some summer recipes while the farmer's markets are still in full swing.

Eat Up! by Ruby Tandoh (Vintage, July): If the name Ruby Tandoh sounds familiar to you, it may be because she was a finalist in the Great British Bake Off or because you've read some of her articles focusing on the intersection of food and society and culture at large. In this collection of essays, Tandoh focuses on issues that are near and dear to her, especially how attitudes about what we eat, what we look like, and who we are entangled and difficult to unknot. She talks about body shaming, being gay, emotional eating, and food in movies. She isn't shy to praise or condemn the foodie elite and food snobs. As I often do with essay collections, I plan to read this one piece at a time, all the while, taking Tandoh's advice to enjoy what I'm eating and ignore the naysayers. Note that she has a cookbook coming out in November.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Abrams Cookbooks & a Winning Salad Recipe (Weekend Cooking)

2022-07-23T06:01:00.010-04:00

Before I get to the cookbook and recipe, I just want to let you know that my Facebook messenger was hacked and someone sent out bogus messages from me yesterday. If you got one, just ignore it. I still haven't figured out how to report the incident, but for now, I'm hoping this is a one-time event.

As you know I've been a member of the Abrams Dinner Party cookbook review group for a number of years now. You may wonder if I continue to use any of the Abrams cookbooks after I've reviewed them. I'm here to say yes. I cook from them a lot.

For example, I made the most delicious chocolate cake I've made in years for our July 4 cookout. That red wine chocolate cake recipe came from Gabriel Kreuther: The Spirit of Alsace, a Cookbook (which I reviewed last November). A week or so ago I made the chicken Parmesan from The Dinner Plan, an Abrams cookbook I first wrote about in December 2017. I shared the recipe for that chicken parm in September 2018, and it's still my go-to.

Anyway, my point is that when I rave about a cookbook, it's not just for the moment. I can usually tell if a cookbook will stand the test of time. Abrams cookbooks often do. If you want to be a member of the Abrams Dinner Party, the application for the next publishing season is live now. You have until July 31 to apply. Just click this link.

This past week has been HOT and next week will be even hotter. Turning on the oven is not high on my list of things I want to do. Thank goodness I own an air fryer, because it saved us from a hot kitchen on three nights (see my meal plan below).

For two dinners, I turned to another favorite Abrams cookbook, What's Gaby Cooking: Eat What You Want, which I reviewed in June 2020. First up was the Greek Chicken Trough, which is a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, chicken and feta cheese. I employed the air fryer here to cook the chopped chicken breasts so I didn't have to heat up my house.The other salad was The LA Chop (see photo from 2020). This one isn't for my vegetarian and vegan friends, but it absolutely satisfies the omnivore BFR household. I've shared the recipe below.

Note that I didn't include the recipe for the lemon vinaigrette needed for the following recipe. Just make a simple olive oil, red wine vinegar, and garlic dressing, substituting the juice of 1 lemon for some of the vinegar.

The LA Chop
Serves 4 as an entree

Lemon Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons dried oregano
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1 head iceberg lettuce [sometimes I use romaine hearts]
1 head radicchio
½ small red onion thinly sliced
1 pint (300g) heirloom cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters
1 (15-oz, 430 g) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
8 ounces (225 g) fresh pearl mozzarella
4 ounces (115 g) provolone cheese, cut into medium dice
4 ounces (115 g) Genoa salami cut into small cubes
5 pepperoncini (stems discarded), cut into thin slices
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano for garnish

Whisk the dried oregano into the vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the lettuce into 1/4-inch strips. Repeat with the radicchio.

In a large, wide bowl, combine the lettuce, and radicchio, tomatoes, chickpeas, mozzarella, provolone, salami, and pepperoncini. Season with salt to taste and toss to thoroughly combine. Drizzle 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the dressing over the salad and toss gently to coat evenly. Taste and add more dressing as needed. Transfer to a large platter and garnish with the chopped oregano.

Note: The recipe is used with permission; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Last Week's Dinners
Saturday: Grilled salmon with roasted yellow wax beans (in the air fryer)
Sunday: Greek Chicken Trough salad (used the air fryer for the chicken)
Monday: Pork tenderloin and broccoli (cooked in the air fryer)
Tuesday: Tofu and vegetable stir-fry and rice
Wednesday & Thursday: Black bean enchiladas
Friday: The LA Chop salad

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Milk Street: The World in a Skillet by Christopher Kimball (Weekend Cooking)

2022-07-09T06:01:00.010-04:00

I've ~~gushed~~ written about Milk Street cookbooks several times here, so you can imagine how happy I was to receive their newest release, The World in a Skillet by Christopher Kimball, from Voracious Books as part of their Voracious Ambassadors review program.

This cookbook is an especially good match for me because I love one-pot meals. When you don't own a dishwasher, anything that saves on cleanup is always welcome. The recipes in The World in a Skillet are based on a general everyday 12-inch pan. Though some dishes require the skillet to go from stovetop to oven, your pan can be stainless, no-stick, or cast iron.

The Milk Street team gathered skillet recipes and inspiration from more than 30 countries, so you can indeed travel the world via your cooking. Some of the countries represented are Lebanon, Japan, Ethiopia, Jamaica, Spain, Korea, Italy, and Peru. The World in a Skillet is a bit meat and fish heavy, but vegetarians and vegans will find some recipes to suit, like Braised Potatoes and Mushrooms with Garlic and Parsley, Hot-and-Sour Stir-Fried Cabbage, and Skillet-Baked Eggplant with Tomatoes and Mozzarella.

The cookbook is arranged first by time (60-, 45-, and 30-minutes meals) and then by other categories, such as "One-Pan Pastas," "Skillet Sides," and "Hearty Grains." Every recipe, in typical Milk Street style, includes extensive tips and notes, which expand your knowledge, offer possible ingredient substitutions, provide serving ideas, and lead to a great final dish.

I have so many recipes marked to try that I don't think The World in a Skillet is going to leave my kitchen for months. Here a few things I've made: Chicken Curry with Tomatoes and Bell Peppers, Lentil and Eggplant Stew with Pomegranate Molasses (see photo), Toasted Pearl Couscous with Zucchini and Herbs, and Georgian-Style Braised Chicken with Tomatoes and Herbs. Everything was delicious. The recipes are easy enough for everyday dinners and tasty and impressive enough for company.

I have only one minor complaint. I had a hard time meeting the "start to finish" times provided for each recipe I tried. It took me 15 or so extra minutes to complete the dishes. This isn't at all a problem for me, but some cooks are pressed for time and need a 30-minute dinner to take no longer than that half hour. The issue may be that it takes me longer than it does Kimball to prep the ingredients. Or maybe my home stovetop and oven aren't as powerful as his professional or high-end appliances. Whatever the case, I thought I should point this out.

Note too that some of the recipes call for less common ingredients, like specialty spice mixes or sauces. I had no trouble buying what I needed at my local grocery stores, even here in a small town. So don't be thrown off by the berbere spice mix or the lemongrass: either you'll be able to find it at a store near you or you can use one of the suggested substitutions.

Recommendation: Most cooks will find a number of appealing dishes to try from The World in a Skillet by Christopher Kimball. The cookbook is a good match for those who like learn about new dishes, try new flavors and ingredients, and like to expand their culinary horizons. Vegans and vegetarians will need to look before buying.

The recipe I'm sharing today is one I haven't tried yet, but I hope to soon. The dish is inspired by Mexican tinga poblana, but can be completed (according to Kimball) in 30 minutes start to finish.

From the headnote: (1) Mexican oregano is often found with the other Mexican ingredients rather than in the spice aisle. Use equal amounts of dried marjoram if you can't find it. (2) Serve the meat in tacos or on tostadas. (3) Don't add the pork to the pan until the sauce is at a full boil to ensure quick cooking. Remove the pan from the heat as soon as the pork is no longer pink, to avoid overcooking and toughness.

Pork Tenderloin in Tomato-Chipotle Sauce
30 minutes
Serves 4

1¼-pound pork tenderloin, trimmed of silver skin, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil
½ medium white onion, thinly sliced
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 bunch cilantro, stems minced, leaved chopped, reserved separately
2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce, chopped, plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce
1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped
¼ cup low-sodium chicken broth
½ teaspoon packed light brown sugar

In a medium bowl, toss the pork with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally until the onion is softened, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the oregano, cumin, and cilantro stems; cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds.

Stir in the chipotle chilies and adobo sauce, the tomatoes, broth, and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium-high, then cover, reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are fully softened and the mixture is saucy, about 8 minutes.

Uncover, increase to medium-high and stir in the pork. Cook, uncovered and stirring often, until the pork is no longer pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then stir in the cilantro leaves.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

The Simple Comforts Step-by-Step Instant Pot Cookbook by Jeffrey Eisner

2022-07-02T06:01:00.010-04:00

Happy holiday weekend to my Canadian and U.S. readers. Hope you did something fun or have something fun planned, preferably with good friends and good food.

Today I want to talk about a new(ish) pressure cooker cookbook by one of the most experienced Instant Pot cooks out there: The Simple Comforts Step-by-Step Instant Pot Cookbook by Jeffrey Eisner. Thanks so much to Voracious and the Voracious Ambassador program for giving me a chance to cook from and review this book.

There a few things you have to know about this cookbook right from the get-go. First, though the recipes will work in any pressure cooker, they were developed specifically for the Instant Pot (IP). Eisner wisely recognizes that there are several IP models and sizes, so he provides instructions that will work in just about any model you have, sometimes with size or volume adjustments.

Second, each and every recipe is clearly marked for a variety of dietary concerns. If you're keto, paleo, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegetarian, or vegan, you will find many recipes to suit your needs. Eisner also notes which recipes can easily be adapted from, say from vegetarian to vegan or from gluten to gluten-free, and provides guidelines for how to make those adjustments. Third, just about every recipe includes helpful tips. Some of these suggest ways to lower the fat content of a recipe; others suggest variations or provide advice.

Finally, the recipes in Simple Comforts totally meet the expectations of the title. The dishes included here are indeed comfort food. You'll find recipes for risotto, mac and cheese, pot roast, and fettuccine alfredo. But you'll also find IP versions of Asian, Mexican, and Mediterranean classics, like pozole verde, Thai chicken satay, Korean beef bulgogi, and osso buco.

As you probably already guessed, the majority of the ingredients called for in Simple Comforts will be easy to find for most people. Eisner's directions are exceptionally simple to follow. The ingredient lists include tips and notes, and each recipe step is illustrated with a photograph, so cooks who are new to the Instant Pot or new to the kitchen should have no problem understanding the process for making each dish. Oh, and unlike so many pressure cooker cookbooks, Eisner's time estimations for each recipe includes "pressure building time." This is so important when trying to plan your meals.

I made several recipes from Simple Comforts, all with excellent outcomes. The Sloppy Joes were easy and delicious. The serving size was for 4-6, but instead of cutting the recipe in half, I opted to make the whole thing and freeze the leftovers for another night. The Risotto Ranchero is, as Eisner states, "a taco-inspired risotto." Salsa, green chiles, and Mexican cheeses replace the more traditional Italian ingredients. Yum! I also made a tortellini soup, a beef stew, and chicken teriyaki (see scan). I can say without reservation that the recipes work and the final dishes are tasty.

When I was thinking about the negatives of Simple Comforts, I could think of only one. This cookbook takes the stance that if it can be made in the Instant Pot, then it should be made in the Instant Pot. I'm not really in that camp. Some dishes come together just as quickly (sometimes quicker) on the stove top. But then I thought about the cooks who don't really like to hover around the stove, keeping on eye on dinner as it cooks.

And then I thought about people who have RVs or campers and how convenient it would be to simply use the Instant Pot. How about when you rent a shore house or a cabin the woods for a couple of weeks? You wouldn't have to worry about an under-equipped kitchen. How about people like me who don't have central air-conditioning? The IP in the summer is a godsend. Oh and then there are those who live in tiny city apartments.

Recommendation: In the end, I decided that The Simple Comforts Step-by-Step Instant Pot Cookbook by Jeffrey Eisner is, in fact, a good cookbook for anyone who likes using their IP or would like to learn how to use the one they stashed on that high shelf in the pantry. No matter your dietary concerns, you'll find a number of everyday, comfort dishes in this cookbook.

I couldn't find a video for a recipe from Simple Comforts, but the following video is only a couple of weeks old and shows Eisner making Linguine La Parma. His personality and style of cooking come through on the page as easily as it does on camera.

You can find more Instant Pot recipes by Jeffrey Eisner on his website: Pressure Luck Cooking.

Note: The scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

General Fiction on My June Reading List

2022-06-13T06:01:00.016-04:00

June is one of the big publishing months of the year. What follows are general fiction titles that caught my attention. Some of these books are perfect for light reading on a hot day by the pool; some are heavier and will make you think.

The blurbs are taken from the publishers' summaries. I've also provided the names of the audiobook narrators.

The Angel of Rome by Jess Walter (Harper): A stunning [short story] collection about those moments when everything changes—for the better, for the worse, for the outrageous—as a diverse cast of characters . . . [question] their roles in life and [find] inspiration in the unlikeliest places. First line:

Mother was a stunner.

Audiobook: Read by Edoardo Ballerini and Julia Whelan

The Beach Trap by Ali Brady (Berkley): Two best friends torn apart by a life-altering secret. One Summer to set the record straight. First line:

There’s something unique about friendships forged between girls at summer camp.

Audiobook: Read by Brittany Pressley and Imani Jade Powers

The Catch by Alison Fairbrother (Random House): A story of the gifts we’re given over the course of a lifetime—the ones we want and the ones we don’t yet understand that we need. First line:

My father, a minor poet, celebrated holidays out of season.

Audiobook: Read by Julia Knippen

Dele Weds Destiny by Tomi Obaro (Knopf): The story of three once-inseparable college friends in Nigeria who reunite in Lagos for the first time in thirty years . . . about mothers and daughters, culture and class, sex and love, and the extraordinary resilience of female friendship. First line:

In the photo they are eating something out of frame, pounded yam, perhaps, or maybe eba.

Audiobook: Read by Tarlye Peterside

Gilt by Jamie Brenner (Putnam): A luxurious and richly compelling . . . novel . . . about a famous family jewelry dynasty and the hidden past that could topple it all. First line:

She reached for her mother's hand, excited and just a little bit afraid.

Audiobook: Read by January LaVoy

Girls They Write Songs About by Carlene Bauer (Farrar, Straus & Giroux): A thrumming, searching novel about the friendships that shape us more than any love affair. First line:

Rose and I moved to New York to be motherless.

Audiobook: Read by Cady Zuckerman

The Hotel Nantucket by Elin Hilderbrand (Little, Brown): An immensely satisfying page-turner . . . about a summer of scandal at a storied Nantucket hotel. First line:

Nantucket Island is known for its cobblestone streets and redbrick sidewalks, cedar-shingled cottages and rose-covered arches, long stretches of golden beach and refreshing Atlantic breezes—and it's also known for residents who adore a juicy piece of gossip (which hot landscaper has been romancing which local real estate mogul's wife—that kind of thing.

Audiobook: Read by Erin Bennett

The Measure by Nikki Erlick (William Morrow): Both heartbreaking and profoundly uplifting, [this] is a sweeping, ambitious meditation on life, family, and society that challenges us to consider the best way to live life to the fullest. First line:

It was difficult to imagine a time before them, a world in which they hadn't come.

Audiobook: Read by Julia Whelan

Nora Goes off Script by Annabel Monaghan (Putnam): Filled with warmth, wit, and wisdom, [this] is the best kind of love story—the real kind where love is complicated by work, kids, and the emotional baggage that comes with life. First line:

Hollywood is coming today.

Audiobook: Read by Hillary Huber

Out of the Clear Blue Sky by Kristan Higgins (Berkley): A funny and surprising new novel about losing it all—and getting back more than you ever expected. First line:

Six months ago, if you had asked me what I thought I’d be doing today, the answer would not have been transporting a drugged skunk to the house where my soon-to-be ex-husband lived with his much-younger fiancée.

Audiobook: Read by Xe Sands and CJ Bloom

These Impossible Things by Salma El-Wardany (Grand Central): A paean to youth and female friendship—and to all the joy and messiness love holds. First line:

"Do you think Eid sex is a thing? Like birthday sex, but just the Muslim equivalent?"

Audiobook: Read by Shazia Nicholls

Tracy Flick Can't Win by Tom Perrotta (Scribner): A pitch-perfect new satirical novel about ambition, coming-of-age in adulthood, and never really leaving high school politics behind. First line:

There was another front-page story in the paper.

Audiobook: Read by a full cast

Truth about Ben and June by Alex Kiester (Park Row): This . . . novel explores the complexity of a modern-day marriage and motherhood, when a new mother vanishes one morning, and her husband must retrace events of their recent past to bring her home. First line:

On the day everything fell apart, Ben awoke to the sound of the baby crying.

Audiobook: Read by Brittany Pressley and Pete Cross

Vacationland by Meg Mitchell Moore (William Morrow): A delicious summer read set in midcoast Maine, tackling family secrets, marriage, motherhood, and privilege. First line:

The Greyhound from Altoona, Pennsylvania, to Rockland, Maine, takes twelve hours and thirty-three minutes with three stops, all of them in the places where you don't necessarily want to use the bathroom but may find you have no choice.

Audiobook: Read by Stacey Glemboski

Who You Might Be by Leigh N. Gallagher (Henry Holt): A fiercely original debut that takes readers from 1990s Southern California to a UFOlogist holdout in Nevada, the graffiti playground of Detroit, and a self-important New York art scene in an unflinching examination of how life’s most unexpected turns—and the people we meet along the way—shape who we become. First line:

Two fourteen-year-old girls, one beautiful and one just okay, are running away from home on a northbound Amtrak.

Audiobook: Read by Aven Shore

Two New Vegan Cookbooks (Weekend Cooking)

2022-06-04T06:01:00.018-04:00

As promised last week, today's post is all about two recent vegan cookbooks. Though they are both focused on plant-based eating, they have different perspectives.

First up is BOSH! on a Budget, the newest cookbook by Henry Firth and Ian Theasby, who are well know for promoting a vegan lifestyle in cookbooks and on their YouTube channel BOSH.tv. Thanks to the publicists for the review copy of this cookbook, which will be released next Tuesday.

Rather than define a certain money limit for what constitutes "budget cooking," Firth and Theasby take a broader view that isn't tied into local food prices and individual resources. Instead, they save money by engaging in batch cooking, eating in-season foods, opting for homemade over convenience food, and cutting down on food waste. The beginning of the cookbook includes several useful features, such as tips for cooking and using up the food you have on hand. Throughout the cookbook are recipes for homemade versions of common ingredients, such as sauces, tofu, and pasta.

My favorite recipes were the salads, soups, and stews, though I really liked the General Tso's Tofu and have several others (like Baked Ratatouille Rice) marked to try. All the dishes are 100% plant based, though many rely on vegan alternatives, especially vegan dairy products. I made and liked the Spanish-Style Stew but must confess that instead of the vegan sausages called for in the recipe, I used the real thing.

Other recipes in BOSH! on a Budget take a different approach to mimicking animal-derived ingredients. Look at the "eggs" in the shakshuka (see scan). They look real, but they're actually made from vegan yogurt and a tahini-pepper sauce. Very clever and fun.

I didn't bake from this cookbook, but vegans who are looking for yummy desserts won't be disappointed by the tray bakes, tarts, and cookies. Note that the sweet treats are plant-based but still have gluten.

Beginner and unsure cooks will appreciate the step-by-step detailed style of the recipe directions. Firth and Theasby have your back from prep to serving, guaranteeing that each element of the dish will be ready at the same time.

Recommendation: BOSH! on a Budget by Henry Firth and Ian Theasby will appeal to a wide variety of vegan and vegetarian cooks. The book is especially helpful to new cooks and, of course, anyone looking to save some money but still eat healthfully. Because I'm not a big fan of vegan meat and dairy substitutes, I'm inclined to adapt the recipes to suit our needs. On the other hand, those who are following a vegan diet for any number of reasons will appreciate having vegan copy-cat recipes in their arsenal.

Note: Photo credit: Lizzie Mayson.

The second cookbook is Body Harmony by Nicole Berrie, who is the person behind the Bonberi website. Thanks to Abrams Books for providing me with the review copy of this cookbook as part of the Abrams Dinner Party.

Like many other people around the world, Berrie turned to a vegan lifestyle after years of dieting and general food confusion. In the first chapters of Body Harmony, Berrie talks about her lifelong struggles with eating as well as her journey to finding peace and balance in her body and soul. She clearly and frankly talks about her food philosophy and how she is able to "maximize digestion and energy" through food combining, intuitive eating, and making sensible choices, while still indulging and enjoying her meals.

Whether you have similar issues as Berrie's or not, you'll find plenty of delicious eating within the pages of Body Harmony. The recipes are incredibly appealing and easy to make. Few (if any) recipes rely on tofu or soy "meat" products, and almost all of the ingredients are readily available to everyone, even those in a small town.

As is often the case, I was drawn to the salads first. I love a good chopped salad and was thrilled to see several included in Body Harmony, such as Mexican Chop, Italian Chopped Salad (yum!), and Joe's Chopped Salad (from a Miami restaurant; see photo). I made the Spicy Roasted Broccoli, the Chickpea Tuna (no tuna involved and delicious), the Creamy Cilantro Rice, the vegan Chopped Liver (see recipe), and the Rigatoni alla Vodka. Recipes I've marked to try include Buffalo Cauliflower, Soba Noodle Salad, Spinach Dill Rice, Lemony Oregano Potatoes, and Simple Massaged Kale Salad with Beets and Avocado.

The recipes were all easy to make and 100% successful. So many of the dishes called to me and fit my tastes and eating style. I also liked that Berrie introduces each dish with a personal story or tips for substitutions or serving.

Recommendation: I like that Body Harmony by Nicole Berrie can be used on a number of levels. For me, it's a source of yummy plant-based dishes to supplement my omnivorous diet. Others will be taken by Berrie's personal health journey and her food philosophy. Vegans and vegetarians will likely give this cookbook a permanent place in their kitchen as a source for easy, delicious, go-to recipes.

Like Berrie, I grew up eating chopped (chicken) liver at almost every family gathering. My fraternal grandmother made the best chopped liver I've ever eaten. Because I have several vegetarian and vegan friends and family members, I was excited to try Berrie's vegan version of a childhood favorite. Note that I didn't have parsley in the house, so I used some torn basil in the photo. The spread is fabulous; the texture and flavor are perfect. Next time I make this, I'll cut the recipe in half or to a third; it made a lot for just the two of us (not that we had any trouble eating it all).

Chopped Liver
Makes about 3 cups

6 tablespoons (90 ml) avocado oil
1 large yellow or white onion chopped, or 2 cups (420 g) chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon tamari
2 cups (150 g) brown lentils, cooked
1 cup (105 g) raw walnuts
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
Freshly chopped parsley for garnish

In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the oil. Add the onion, garlic, and tamari and saute on medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, until cooked down. Let cool. Transfer the onion mixture to a food processor or blender and add the lentils, walnuts, and remaining 4 tablespoons (60 ml) of the oil, the salt, and pepper. Blend until creamy. Serve as a dip with crudities or use as a "pate" spread.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Two New Cookbooks (Weekend Cooking)

2022-05-28T06:01:00.011-04:00

I know summer officially starts on June 21, but here in the States, we consider Memorial Day weekend as the real start of the season. We don't have a lot plans for the holiday, but hamburgers and hotdogs are definitely on the horizon.

Today I want to introduce you to two cookbooks I've been enjoying this spring. Next week, I'll review two new vegan cookbooks.

The first cookbook is perfect for those of us who like to host friends and family for casual dinners but need to figure out how to accommodate a variety of eating styles, allergies, and so on. Anna Stockwell's new cookbook For the Table is full of advice and menus to help you make all your guests feel well fed and cared for, no matter their diet. Thanks to Abrams for providing me with a review copy as part of the Abrams Dinner Party.

Besides recipes, Stockwell offers advice on how to prepare for dinner guests, gives us ideas for conversation starters and games, and provides timeline and prep advice for each menu. Note, too, that every recipe in For the Table is clearly marked as gluten-free, vegan, meat-free, dairy-free, and/or pescatarian. As an added bonus for those of you who are gluten sensitive, every recipe in this book is safe for you to eat because Stockwell herself must avoid gluten.

To be honest, I'm not generally a fan of menu cookbooks, but For the Table is an exception for a couple of reasons. First, her menus are based on two principal dishes, either of which could stand as the main, though one is generally more protein heavy than the other. Stockwell suggests options for sauces and side dishes and provides a quick recipe or two to accommodate what she calls "other dietary restrictions." Of course, you need not follow the menus to a tee, and I swapped dishes to suit our tastes and needs. Finally, Stockwell tells us when a recipe can be halved or quartered to serve fewer people, so the recipes can be adapted for everyday use.

Here are a couple examples of menus: For winter, serve red wine-braised short ribs with Gorgonzola baked polenta. Round out the menu with a salad and a gremolata. Stockwell offers quick pantry and freezer alternatives for vegetarian or pescatarian guests. One of the summer menus stars za'atar grilled eggplant and zucchini served with a blue cheese and tomato salad. Add-ons include sauces for the veggies and chickpea scocca. Serve a different salad if you have dairy-free and vegan guests.

I made Crunchy Winter Salad (see recipe below), Spring Greens with Fried Dates, Grilled Paprika Chicken with Garlic Vinegar (see my photo), and the grilled zucchini and eggplant mentioned above. I have plenty more dishes marked to try, especially for later in the season when the farmer's markets are in full swing.

Recommended for pretty much everyone. I think gluten-free cooks will especially like For the Table by Anna Stockwell, but really it's a cookbook that most of us will find useful. The subtitle says it all: "Easy, adaptable, crowd-pleasing recipes."

The second cookbook is for all you carb lovers. That Noodle Life by Mike Le and Stephanie Le (of the blog I am a Food Blog) is your guide to all things pasta, from Asian-inspired noodle bowls to lasagna, to mac and cheese. Thanks to Workman for providing me with a copy of this cookbook as part of their Workman Ambassador program.

Stepping beyond just noodle recipes, the Les provide a guide to all the different kinds of available noodles, instructions on properly preparing noodles, and how to top and serve your finished dish. I especially like the features, which are riffs on a type of noodle or noodle dish. For example, the authors give us ten ideas for using various kinds of instant noodles in soups, a section all about laksa, and a fun feature on using lasagna noodles.

The recipes themselves are easy to follow and are fairly inventive. That Noodle Life tells us how to make Oven-Roasted Yakiudon Al Pastor (taco-inspired noodles), Philly Cheesesteak Noodles, Spicy Sesame Chili Oil Noodles (really easy, really good), Garlic-Butter Bucatini with Oyster Sauce, Pumpkin Sage Mac and Cheese, and Wonton Noodle Soup Like They Do in Hong Kong.

I've made several noodle dishes from That Noodle Life. I admit I was drawn to the quickest, easiest dishes, but ambitious cooks will find plenty of recipes to keep them occupied. Those who are able to get fresh seafood or have a local well-stocked Asian market will find new ideas for serving their favorite ingredients.

Recommendation: If you like noodles, you should give That Noodle Life by Mike and Stephanie Le a try. Vegetarians will find a number of appropriate recipes; vegans and gluten-free eaters will want to look through the cookbook before buying. Visit I am a Food Blog to learn more about the Les and to try some of their recipes.

The following recipe is from For the Table. As one of my fellow Abrams Dinner Party participants said, "It may be called a winter salad, but it's good all year round." I used both daikon and watermelon radishes because the little bit of pink was pretty.

Crunchy Winter Salad
Serves 6; can be halved

1 large or 2 small daikon radishes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
4 ribs celery, thinly sliced on a bias
2 green apples, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons white balsamic or white wine vinegar
1 cup (40 g) loosely packed fresh basil leaves

Place the radish, fennel, celery, and apples in a large bowl of ice water and let sit until ready to serve, up to 3 hours. This keeps everything safe from oxygen exposure, which would cause browning, but the ice also makes everything extra-crispy, so don't skip this step even if you're serving in 30 minutes. When ready to serve, drain and spin dry in a salad spinner if you have one, or spread out on a clean dish towel and pat dry. Transfer to a large salad or mixing bowl. Season with salt, and toss to combine. Then drizzle with the vinegar, and toss to combine again. Transfer to a serving platter and top with the basil to serve.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food by Colu Henry (Weekend Cooking)

2022-05-21T06:01:00.010-04:00

Today’s cookbook made me excited for summer and the prospect of having friends and family over for dining on the deck. Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food, by Colu Henry (which I received from Abrams Books) isn’t just for entertaining, though. I found most dishes will work just fine for the two of us on a weeknight.

The style and feel of Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food is simple elegance. In fact, Henry notes in her introduction that she was inspired by the classic years of Gourmet Magazine. I’m not surprised, since she’s no stranger to food writing. You can find her work in the likes of the New York Times and Food & Wine.

As the title suggests, many of the finished dishes in this cookbook are indeed fancy sounding and plate up beautifully. Still, at the same time, the recipes themselves are true to author's promise: almost all of them are fairly easy to throw together.

It’s interesting that Henry admits she’s no baker, so for the sweets chapter, she called on her friends to “bring a dessert” to the party. I love that she’s confident enough to know her weaknesses as well as her strengths.

Some of the recipe and chapter names reflect Henry’s personality: Pretending I’m Vacationing in Italy Salad (cucumbers, mozzarella, prosciutto, fresh herbs, olive oil); Seven Fish, No Feast (the fish chapter); and More Shrimp Than You Think Pasta (shrimp, fennel, chile peppers, herbs, mezzi rigatoni). Others, of course, are straight to the point: Pan-Roasted Chicken Thighs with Asparagus and Charred Scallion-Sesame Salsa, Steak Sandwiches on Buttered Toast with Aioli and Spicy Greens, and Broiled Mussels with Panko and Pecorino.

I’ve made several recipes from Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food, and all were successful and simple to make. For example, we make beans quite often, but found her Pot of Beans, with its fresh herbs and garlic, a welcome change from our usual Tex-Mex versions. We also liked her Sausage, Pepper, and Onions with Melty Caprese, which is a kind of sheet pan dish. Alexandra Stafford’s Orange, Olive Oil, and Almond Torte, which had the perfect balance of tart and sweet, was delicious for afternoon tea and for dessert (see my photo).

The winning dish was the Gingery Lamb Meatballs with Tomato Confit Broth and Seeded Yogurt (though I didn’t make the yogurt; see the scan). I’ll make these meatballs again and again. I used the called-for ground lamb, but I’m sure they’d be just as good with beef or chicken. The Cherry Tomato Confit (see recipe below) was so easy to make, and, according to Henry, it can be popped into the freezer. I plan to make a big batch this summer when the cherry tomatoes are abundant at the farmer’s markets.

Some of the recipes I hope to try are the Roasted Squash Soup, Indian-Spiced Yogurt Chicken, Citrus-Braised Short Ribs, Summer Corn Salad with Shrimp, Blistered Green Beans and Tomatoes with Harissa Butter, and Rice Salad for a Screened-In Porch Dinner.

Recommendation: Colu Henry’s Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food is recommended for cooks looking to spark up their dinner table with not too much effort. This cookbook is also great for those of us who like to use recipes as inspiration, tweaking main ingredients or herbs and spices to use what we already have on hand. While the book includes a number of meat-free recipes, I suggest vegetarians and vegans look before buying. Gluten-free eaters will find many recipes to suit their needs.

The following recipe for tomato confit can be frozen for up to 6 months. The author suggests using it as a base for pasta sauce, to enhance soups and stews, to add to beans, to spoon over cheese on toasted bread, and to turn into a broth by adding stock. Note that I cut the recipe in half and used both thyme and rosemary.

Cherry Tomato Confit
Makes about 6 cups (900 ml)
Time: 50 minutes

3 pounds (1.4 kg) heirloom cherry tomatoes, in a variety of shapes and colors
1 cup (240 ml) virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
kosher salt
8 sprigs thyme or rosemary, or a combination of both

Preheat the oven to 300F (150C). Place the tomatoes in two 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) baking dishes in one layer. Add the oil, red pepper flakes, and garlic and season well with salt. Stir to make sure the tomatoes are well coated in the oil. Nestle in the herbs.

Roast, stirring a couple of times, until the tomatoes begin to burst and the skins begin to look pleasantly wrinkled, 40 to 50 minutes.

Allow to come to room temperature, remove the herb sprigs, and then store in an airtight container, pouring any residual liquid over the top. They will keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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