The courtyard garden at The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
It’s a crisp April day and a light mist falls over the garden of the Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath, England. Other than modern outdoor furniture meticulously placed around the courtyard (including a tree swing shaped like a giant acorn), it’s easy to imagine I’ve been transported to the early 19th century – the heart of Bath’s Georgian era when Jane Austen reluctantly called the city home.
Bath was the place to see and be seen when Austen lived there (1801-1805). Hordes of young bachelors and bachelorettes would flock to the city, don their best Georgian attire, and promenade along its avenues and expansive green parks in search of a wealthy spouse.
In 1987, this mid-sized city about an hour and a half (by train) from London, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site cementing its reputation as a place of cultural and historical significance.
Based on her writings, Austen found Bath somewhat disdainful, but walking in her footsteps today, it seems anything but – given its deep history and the variety of attractions, restaurants and hotels open to visitors. Here are 10 sites that shouldn’t be missed.
Landmarked hotel
The Royal Crescent
The Royal Crescent in Bath — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
This row of 30 attached Georgian homes, originally known simply as "the crescent," is an architectural wonder designed in a crescent shape by John Wood the Younger (completed in 1774).
While most of the 30 homes remain privately owned, visitors can book a room at the posh Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa – featuring the aforementioned garden – situated near the crescent’s center.
Set alongside the manicured lawns of the 57-acre Royal Victoria Park (a popular promenading location), the Royal Crescent Hotel’s 45 rooms and suites are all unique and named in honor of guests who’ve slept here, including "the grand old Duke of York," Prince Frederick.
Historical museums
The Roman Baths
The Roman Baths — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
For centuries, Bath has been a destination for the infirm who seek a cure for their ailments by "taking the water": soaking in or sipping the sulfur water believed to have healing properties. The Romans discovered the springs and constructed the public baths around 70 A.D.
Many of the original pools and temples have been excavated and restored, and it's one of the city’s most popular attractions. Next door in The Pump Room, visitors can order the mineral water that has reported curative properties and indulge in traditional afternoon tea.
The Jane Austen Centre
Costumed character at the Jane Austen Museum — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Located in a Georgian townhouse in the city center, costumed guides share what life in Bath was like for Austen and highlight the author’s life before and after her time there. Visitors can snag the perfect Instagram shot by dressing in Regency attire that Austen may have worn, or take time to pen a note with ink and quill on a writing desk similar to one she may have used.
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The Fashion Museum and Assembly Rooms
Time traveling through costuming at The Fashion Museum — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Even if fashion is not your jam, this museum is worth a visit. Fashions from every decade since the late 16th century are on display in chronological order. Visitors can slip into dresses, jackets, bonnets and hats and pose in front of a wallpapered faux promenade.
Be sure to take a stroll through the Assembly Rooms, the grand ballrooms from the 18th century, where those with social status (or those seeking it) assembled to dance, drink tea and gamble.
No. 1 Royal Crescent
Arriving at No. 1 Royal Crescent — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Discover what life was like during Georgian times by exploring this restored mansion at the east end of the crescent. Guides provide insight on activities, furnishing and fixtures from the era.
Culinary creativity
Dower House Restaurant
Afternoon tea at The Dower House — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Tucked beyond the garden at the Royal Crescent Hotel, the Dower House not only offers fine dining for both lunch and dinner, but also a noteworthy afternoon tea – including a gluten-free afternoon tea that exceeded others I’ve experienced around the United Kingdom.
Eight
A vegetarian entree at Eight — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Situated in a townhouse in the center of all the activity, Eight is both a boutique hotel (eight rooms) and restaurant. The menu changes seasonally with eight main small plates featured, including many that are gluten- and allergy-free. There is a casual dining room with eight tables on the main level or guests can descend a narrow stone staircase to the historic bar and dining area in the basement.
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Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House
Sally Lunn's buns — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Few visitors to Bath leave without indulging in a bun at Sally Lunn’s. The restaurant is in one of the city’s oldest houses (circa 1482) and features the regional specialty, the Sally Lunn bun, an oversized semi-sweet bun served with sweet or savory toppings of your choice.
Sightseeing and events
Bath Abbey
Bath Abbey — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
Originally founded in the 7th century, Bath Abbey is a Grade 1 listed building (historically notable) and one of the best examples of Victorian Gothic architecture in the west of England. King Edgar was crowned here in the year 973 and the stained glass windows and wooden ceiling over the nave are must-sees.
Festivals
The waterfront in Bath, England — Photo courtesy of Wendy O'Dea
While Bath hosts a number of events and festivals throughout the year (including a Christmas Market and the classical music events Mozartfest and Bachfest), Austen fans will be most interested in the Jane Austen Festival that takes place every fall.
The festival kicks off with costumed participants parading through the city to visit many of Bath’s historical sites. The 10-day event features walking tours, masked balls and food from the era. There is also a Regency costumed ball every summer.
Logistics
Flights: Fly to the small Bristol airport in Somerset or direct to London via major air carriers, including Norwegian Air which offered the most affordable options at the author's time of travel.
Train: From the airport, take the Gatwick or Heathrow Express into the city, followed by a short train journey from Paddington Station to Bath.
Tours: Walking tours are available from a few different operators, including Around and About Bath with guides who can tailor a tour to your specific interests.