Black Bears in the Great Smoky Mountains: Patience will be rewarded (column)
We had already traveled 105 miles on Skyline Drive and were almost to the end of the 469 mile Blue Ridge Parkway. We only had to traverse the 44 miles through the Great Smoky Mountains, from Cherokee to Gatlinburg, and we would be there.
Cades Cove.
It’s a place where we had gone last fall to photograph massive white-tailed deer. Now, our primary goal was to capture pictures of black bears.
Cades Cove is a very special part of the Great Smoky Mountains, managed by the National Park Service. Due to the conservation efforts of many individuals who had the foresight and vision to preserve this area for future generations, the number of visitors continue to increase, drawing over 2 million visitors per year. After seeing numerous photos of sows with their cubs on social media, we packed our Jeep and headed south.
As we were about to enter the cove, we met some disgruntled visitors, claiming they hadn’t seen a single bear. Surprised, but not discouraged, we journeyed on.
We had just begun our drive through the “loop,” an 11-mile road circling the historic district, when we spotted our first sow, with three cubs in tow. Smiles crept onto our faces, relieved that our trip had not been in vain. Bears are a huge draw, and it wasn’t long before volunteer park rangers showed up to direct traffic.
They told us that it was a “bumper” year for cubs, with three being the average, and if we stayed until dusk, we would be sure to spot some.
The 11-mile trip around the cove usually takes between 2-4 hours. There is so much to observe and learn during the drive, and regardless of the season, the crowds never diminish. If you’re the anxious type, the loop will definitely test your patience. Just be persistent, and pack snacks and drinks to enjoy as you creep along. There are plenty of pull-outs where you can stretch your legs, and take photos of the spectacular scenery, or wildflowers.
On our first day, we counted ten sows, each with triplets. The moms were teaching their cubs how to climb up nearby trees. Watching and photographing them as they practiced was something we will never forget. Females communicate with their cubs using low grunts, signaling to them to climb a tree when danger is near, or to descend after it has passed.
Cubs are born during the winter, usually in January, and are tiny, practically hairless, and blind. They are completely dependent on their mother, who nurses them and keeps them warm. Their eyes open around six weeks, and at eight weeks they learn to walk. When they are 3-months-old, they leave the den with their mother, are weaned by 7 months, and by fall, usually weigh between 60 to 100 pounds.
Mothers and their cubs will den together once again during the winter after their birth and stay together until late spring. She is now ready to breed again, and the cubs will be sent on their way. Consequently, a female generally raises only one litter every two years. The male cubs, now 16-months-old and called yearlings, will disperse while female yearlings establish home ranges nearby.
We photographed these bears and their cubs at a safe distance, using long lenses to capture memorable moments. In three days, we were able to see and photograph a total of 37 bears, including those little 6 month old cubs.
Cades Cove is located near Townsend, Tenn., in what is considered to be the “peaceful side” of the Smokies.
Dave Wolf may be reached by email at wolfang418@msn.com