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Finish out the summer with the best, beefiest burger

Kate Lawson
The Detroit News

Hold on a minute there, summer. Where do you think you’re going? After waiting forever for you to arrive, we’re not exactly done with you yet. Sure, autumn officially arrives on Sept. 23 and that means we still have plenty of time to grill and chill. And for me that means burgers and beer.

Don’t tell me you’ve gone all summer long without experiencing one of the best culinary feats: The perfectly grilled burger? Oh, sure, you’ve had a burger or two or three over the past few months — at the family reunion or graduation party. But was it the best burger you’ve ever had? Well grab your buns and get ready for a refresher course on how to make the best burger you’ve eaten this summer. From beef to bun, condiments to cheese and assorted add-ins. America’s favorite party food is sure to have a starring role over the long Labor Day weekend.

The beauty of a good burger, of course, begins with the beef. The key is the amount of fat in the meat, because if you use meat that’s too lean, it will end up with the consistency of a hockey puck. Ideally, you want about 15 to 20 percent fat, so ask your butcher for a coarse grind of ground chuck.

Then consider the seasonings, the toppings, the condiments, the cheese and the type of bun you want to use. Sesame or poppy seed, brioche or whole grain? Feeling adventuresome enough to want to make your own? We have the recipe, along with grilling tips.

klawson@detroitnews.com

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Fancy Burger

Recipe from food.com

1 egg

1 teaspoon mustard (regular or Dijon)

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 small onion, finely grated

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 pound ground chuck

Add-ins: Use any of these to suit your fancy

1 tablespoon creamy caesar salad dressing or 1 tablespoon Greek salad dressing

1 tablespoon chopped sun-dried tomatoes

1 tablespoon sour cream or 1 tablespoon yogurt

1 tablespoon grated fresh lemon rind or 1 tablespoon lime rind

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1 tablespoon ketchup or 1 tablespoon barbecue sauce

1 teaspoon lemon pepper

1 teaspoon curry powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano or 1 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh herb

2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon teriyaki sauce or 1 teaspoon hoisin sauce

1 fresh jalapenos or 1 pickled jalapeno pepper, chopped

Lightly oil grill grate and heat BBQ to medium.

Whisk egg in a bowl and add next 6 ingredients. Then add any of the “add-ins” that appeal to you.

Crumble in beef and using your hands or a fork, gently mix together. Handle the meat as little as possible — the more you work it, the tougher it gets.

Gently shape (don’t firmly press) mixture into burgers about 3/4-inch thick.

Using your thumb, make a shallow depression in the center of each burger to prevent puffing up during cooking.

Place burgers on the grill, close lid and grill to desired doneness, about 6-8 minutes per side for medium. (An instant read thermometer should read 160 degrees.)

Don’t abuse your burgers by pressing with a spatula, pricking with a fork or turning frequently as precious juices will be lost. Tuck into a warm crusty bun and add your favorite toppings. Serves 4.

Per serving: 320.4 calories; 22.2 g fat (7.9 g saturated fat; 62 percent calories from fat); 5.5 g carbohydrates; 2.7 g sugar; 126.6 mg cholesterol; 575.5 mg sodium; 23.5 g protein; 1.1 g fiber.

Bacon and Kimchi Burgers

Recipe from Food & Wine

1/4 cup sambal oelek (Indonesian chile sauce)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup ketchup

4 slices of thick-cut bacon

1 1/4 pounds ground beef chuck

Kosher salt

4 slices of American cheese

4 potato buns, toasted

1 cup chopped drained cabbage kimchi (6 ounces)

In a small bowl, combine the sambal with the mayonnaise and ketchup and mix well.

Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Grill the bacon over moderate heat, turning, until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes total. Drain on paper towels.

Form the beef into eight 1/4-inch-thick burgers and season with salt. Grill over high heat, turning, until browned, 1 minute per side. Make 4 stacks of 2 burgers each on the grill and spoon 1 tablespoon of the sambal mayo over each stack. Top with the cheese, cover and grill over high heat just until the cheese is melted, about 1 minute.

Spread the remaining sambal mayo on the bottom buns. Top with the burgers, bacon and kimchi, close and serve. Serves 4.

Per serving: 670 calories; 39 g fat (13 g saturated fat; 52 percent calories from fat); 43 g carbohydrates; 11 g sugar; 120 mg cholesterol; 1,742 mg sodium; 37 g protein; 2 g fiber.

Double RL Ranch Burger

Recipe from Bon Appetit from Ralph Lauren’s signature restaurant

Ralph’s Special Sauce

1/2 cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods)

1/3 cup ketchup (preferably Heinz)

2 tablespoons sweet relish

1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons

1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon hot sauce (preferably Tabasco)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, cornichons, onion, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, onion powder, and hot sauce in a small bowl; season sauce with salt and pepper. Sauce can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Burgers

3 pounds ground beef chuck (20-percent fat)

Kosher salt

8 ounces cheddar (such as Cabot), thinly sliced

8 sesame buns, toasted

16 slices bacon, cooked

Green leaf lettuce, sliced tomato, sliced red onion, and sliced pickles (for serving)

Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Divide beef into 8 portions (about 6 ounces each). Working with 1 portion at a time, cup your hands around the meat and begin to gently shape it into a round patty, being careful not to pack the meat too tightly. Lightly press down on patty to flatten, then press a slight indentation into the center with your thumb (this will prevent patties from bulging when cooked).

Generously season both sides of patties with salt and grill 5 minutes. Turn and top with cheese. Cover grill and cook until cheese is melted and patties are medium-rare, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to a platter and let rest 5 minutes.

Build burgers with buns, patties, bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, and special sauce. Serves 8.

Per serving: 1,030 calories; 70 g fat (26 g saturated fat; 61 percent calories from fat); 50 g carbohydrates; 9 g sugar; 225 mg cholesterol; 1,280 mg sodium; 48 g protein; 3 g fiber.

Bacon Mushroom Burger

Recipe from Food Network.

4 small portabella mushroom caps, roughly 3-inches in diameter or trimmed to 3-inches in diameter

Olive oil (about 2 tablespoons)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

2 pounds fresh ground 80-percent lean chuck

1 (8-ounce) piece pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 Kaiser rolls, split

Unsalted butter, softened (about 2 tablespoons)

4 slices aged Swiss cheese

Preheat a grill for direct-heat cooking and preheat the broiler. Rub the mushroom caps with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the grill and cook, turning once, until softened, about 5 minutes. Cool.

Divide the beef into 4 equal amounts and, working with one portion at a time, form into a very thin patty. Place the mushroom cap in the center and fold the beef up and around the mushroom, pressing the beef around the edges of the cap until the mushroom is completely covered. Season the mushroom-beef patties generously with salt and pepper and place on the grill. Grill 4 to 5 minutes on each side for medium rare.

Meanwhile, cook the pancetta in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until crispy and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Generously spread the butter on both sides of each roll and place under the broiler until toasted.

Place the cooked burgers on a rimmed cookie sheet and evenly top with the crispy pancetta bits and a slice of Swiss cheese. Place under the broiler until the cheese is just melted.

Build the burger by putting the patty on the bottom of a toasted bun. Add your favorite toppings and condiments, then add the top half of the bun. Serves 4.

Per serving: 910 calories; 60 g fat (24 g saturated fat; 59 percent calories from fat); 32 g carbohydrates; 2 g sugar; 198 mg cholesterol; 1,032 mg sodium; 58 g protein; 2 g fiber.

Latin Macho Burger

Food Network

12 ounces ground beef

8 ounces chorizo

1 tablespoon adobo seasoning

3 large yellow onions; 1 grated and 2 thinly sliced

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup minced jalapeno peppers

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

3/4 cup mayonnaise

2 roasted red bell peppers

6 potato rolls, split

6 slices cheese

Mix the ground beef, chorizo, adobo seasoning and grated onion in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Form into 6 patties. Refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sliced onions and season with salt and pepper. Add the jalapenos and brown sugar and saute until the onions are caramelized and soft, about 15 minutes.

Puree the mayonnaise and roasted red peppers in a blender or food processor until creamy. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat a grill to high. Grill the patties until cooked to the desired doneness.

Spread 1 tablespoon red pepper mayonnaise on both sides of the rolls. Lay a burger on the bottom half and top with caramelized onions, a slice of cheese and the top half of the roll. Serves 6.

Per serving: 719 calories; 43 g fat (11 g saturated fat; 54 percent calories from fat); 58 g carbohydrates; 29 g sugar; 106 mg cholesterol; 1,165 mg sodium; 26 g protein; 5 g fiber.

Upscale Sliders

When you want to go small, try these elegant little patties tucked inside a brioche bun. Recipe from Food Network.

6 slices pancetta

1 pound ground beef sirloin

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

2 tablespoons canola oil, for the pan

6 slices Gruyere

6 mini brioche buns, toasted

3 tablespoons stone-ground mustard, for serving

6 cornichons, for serving

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper and spread the pancetta slices on top. Bake until crisp, about 10 minutes.

Divide the ground beef into 6 portions and gently form into patties. Sprinkle the patties generously with salt and pepper.

Oil a grill pan or cast-iron skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Cook the patties 3 to 5 minutes per side for medium doneness. Add the Gruyere slices; cover the patties with a bowl until the cheese is melted. Remove from the grill pan.

To assemble: Place a patty on a bottom bun, top with a piece of crisp pancetta, and finish with the bun top. Serve immediately, with mustard and cornichons on the side. Serves 6.

Per serving: 633 calories; 36 g fat (12 g saturated fat; 51 percent calories from fat); 43 g carbohydrates; 13 g sugar; 145 mg cholesterol; 925 mg sodium; 31 g protein; 2 g fiber.

Homemade Hamburger Buns

Recipe from Food Network

1 cup warm water (about 110 degrees)

3 tablespoons whole milk

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

2 tablespoons sugar

3 large eggs

3 3/4 cups (1 pound, 2.75 ounces) all-purpose flour, plus additional for the counter

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

Optional: poppy, sesame, or caraway seeds, coarse salt

In a liquid measuring cup, combine the warm water, milk, yeast, and sugar. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, use a whisk to beat 2 eggs in a small bowl.

In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the salt. Add the butter to the flour and gently rub it in with your fingers. Stir in the yeast mixture and beaten eggs with a wooden spoon until the dough starts to come together.

Dump the dough onto a well-floured counter and knead vigorously, folding the dough onto itself and throwing it down onto the counter. Work with it for about 10 minutes, adding additional flour when the dough gets sticky. Shape the dough into a ball and return it to its bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using your knife, divide the dough into 8 equal parts. Gently roll each part into a ball and arrange 2 to 3 inches apart on a baking sheet. Cover loosely with a clean dish towel and let the buns rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees with the rack in the center. Fill a metal pan with water and set it on the oven floor or bottom rack

In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon of water and brush some of the mixture on top of the buns with the pastry brush. If you are using seeds and/or coarse salt, sprinkle them over the egg wash. Place the buns in the oven and bake, turning the sheet halfway through baking, until the tops are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely. Makes 8 buns.

Storage: Room temperature: covered container or sealed bag, 2 days. Freezer: cut in half lengthwise, freezer bag, 6 months.

Per serving: 291 calories; 6 g fat (3 g saturated fat; 19 percent calories from fat); 49 g carbohydrates; 4 g sugar; 80 mg cholesterol; 467 mg sodium; 9 g protein; 2 g fiber.

Great burger tips

The Meat: Fat is good

You want a burger packed with rich, beefy flavor and dripping with juice, right? Well then, you want — and need — fat. It’s the source of all that messy goodness. So do two things: Find a butcher you trust and order freshly ground chuck (stay away from the stuff that’s been sitting around in a Styrofoam tray for days), and ask for a ratio of 80 percent meat to 20 percent fat. It’s the magic formula. It’ll yield a juicy burger, but not one that triggers flare-ups when excess grease hits the coals. Memorize this ratio and you can’t go wrong.

The Patty: Be gentle

The less you handle the meat, the better. A loosely formed patty will be more succulent. To shape it, grab a handful of beef and form a round patty by gently turning the meat while cupping the edge with your palms; lightly press the top to flatten it as you go. Stop when you’ve got a 4-inch patty that’s about 3/4-inch thick (six or seven turns). Burgers contract as they cook, causing the middle to push up into a dome. To avoid this, make a small indentation in the center of the patty with your thumb. This keeps the burger flat as it cooks. One more thing: Spatulas were made for flipping, not pressing on the patty. Hear that hissing sound when you do? That’s all the flavorful juices dripping on the coals — they belong in the burger.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper are all you need

Think about your favorite burgers you enjoy while dining out. The reason they’re so good is simple: The cooks start with fresh, quality beef and then don’t add much to it, say the purists. No Worcestershire sauce, no onion, no egg (save that for meatloaf). As with steak, let beef speak for itself and allow the intense heat of the grill to draw out its natural flavors. The method: Season one side of a patty generously and evenly with salt and pepper. Grill it, seasoned side down. Then, before flipping, season the other side. Done. However, no one will judge you if you want to up the ante on the seasonings, it is, after all, a matter of taste.

The Cheese: Go all-American

You know that moment when American cheese reaches a molten, near-liquid state, seeping into the crags of the crisp patty, merging with the juices and special sauce? That’s what you want. So let the fancy chefs crumble Roquefort on their burgers. You should keep it classic.

Condiments: Instead of ketchup and mustard, try herb-flavored yogurt, soy sauce, aioli (a garlicky mayonnaise), chutney or salsa to accompany your burger. Make your own chutney or salsa or buy it. If you must have mustard, stir in a dollop of horseradish or a bit of minced pickled ginger. Heighten the flavor of ketchup with minced chipotle chilies (a tiny bit goes a long way).

Bread: This also makes a great burger. Toast pita bread on the grill or run under the broiler to brown, then add the burger. Flour tortillas and naan (Indian flat bread) are also delicious burger holders. Ciabatta rolls, which are crusty and flat, are popping up in more supermarkets and make great burger buns

More tips

■Have a hot grill.

■Oil the cooking grate.

■Quickly place all the patties on the hot grill and close the lid and wait about 2 to 3 minutes.

■Use a metal spatula. Test to see if burger easily lifts from the grate. If not, keep grilling until it does.

■Flip all of the patties, close the lid and continue grilling for another 2 to 3 minutes.

■Check patties again to make sure they have released from the grate and flip one more time. Continue grilling until juices from the burgers run clear and the patties have a solid feel.

■Remove from grill and check to make sure they are cooked through by using a fork to pierce through the center.

Source: Derrick Riches, about.com’s barbecue and grilling expert

Cooking times

Rare: 4 minutes on side one, 3 minutes side two

Medium rare: 5 minutes side one, 4 minutes side two

Medium: 5 minutes side one, 5 minutes side two

Medium well: 7 minutes side one, 5 minutes side two

Well done: 7 minutes side one, 7 minutes side two.