Cruising to adventure in Mexico's Sea of Cortes

MAGDALENA BAY, Mexico -- The white-and-red skiff carrying Jo Leppert and nine of her fellow travelers in search of gray whales has barely left the dock when they get their first big thrill: A giant female erupting from the water just a few feet away.

As big as a Greyhound bus, the 40-foot-long creature has emerged so close to the boat that the spray from its blow hole mists the cameras clicking away. And it's not alone. Nestled up to its barnacle-dotted belly is a 15-foot-long baby.

"Awesome," is all that Leppert, a 72-year-old retiree from Columbus, Ohio, can say as the mother and daughter glide by in unison. "They're so big."

Awesome, indeed. And the sighting of one of the world's largest mammals is just the beginning of Leppert's adventure here on the southern end of Mexico's Baja Peninsula.

The former office worker is exploring the region's scenic coastline and surrounding, wildlife-rich waters on ship-based adventure company Un-Cruise Adventures' new Baja's Bounty! tour, a seven-night voyage in the Sea of Cortes that includes everything from snorkeling with sea lions to kayaking past blue-footed boobies.

Kicking off at the tip of the Baja Peninsula in San Jose del Cabo, the sailing takes places on Un-Cruise's 84-passenger Safari Endeavour and is aimed at travelers who want to get off the beaten path to experience the region's famously rugged beauty and marine life.

Loaded with kayaks, paddle boards and motorized Zodiac boats, the Safari Endeavour is designed for active exploring and spends much of the week anchored in remote bays and coves along the coast.

Typical of what's to come, the first day brings a stop at Espiratu Santo, an arid, uninhabited island that is lined with white sand beaches and cactus-dotted bluffs. The Safari Endeavour drops anchor in the aquamarine waters of Bonanza Bay, and passengers head out in Zodiacs to explore for critters along the shore. Others don wetsuits to snorkel along a rocky outcropping that is teeming with colorful reef fish including Sergeant Majors, Moorish Idols, Giant Damselfish and King Angelfish. Some spot stingrays and long, needle-like Coronetfish.

The next day brings even more outdoorsy options as the Safari Endeavour anchors from sunrise to sundown in Bahia Agua Verde, a circular bay lined with red rock cliffs. Passengers have the choice of touring the craggy coastline in Zodiacs, hiking up a rocky bluff, kayaking in search of osprey and other birds or riding a burro through a mesquite-carpeted valley with a local ranchero.

It's a flexible, changing-by-the-day itinerary, as expedition leader Mark Hopkins explains on the first night. The ship often alters its route based on reports of wildlife sightings, changing weather or even the requests of passengers, and no two sailings are the same.

"We're guided by whim, weather and wildlife," Hopkins says, repeating an oft-used phrase at the company. "We have dozens and dozens of places that we can go here in Baja."

Separated from the mainland of Mexico by the Sea of Cortes, the 800-mile-long Baja Peninsula is a majestic land dominated by soaring mountain ranges and desert terrain covered in towering cardon cactuses and spiky yuccas. In the southeastern coastal area frequented by the Safari Endeavour, the jagged Sierra de la Giganta mountains light up at sunrise in shades of reds, oranges and purples, framing the crystalline waters of beach-lined bays and coves. A string of exquisite, mostly uninhabited islands sit just off shore.

Sometimes described as the Galapagos of North America, the region is home to an unusually diverse array of marine mammals including sea lions, dolphins, blue whales, fin whales, humpback whales and orcas -- although it's rare to spot all or even most of them during a typical week aboard the Safari Endeavour. Giant frigate birds, blue-footed boobies, whale sharks, mantas and sea turtles are other highlights of the area.

For many of the passengers on the Safari Endeavour, the trip is a rare chance to see the marine mammals in their natural habitat.

"It's so different than when you see them in the controlled environment of an aquarium," says Susan Denison, a 58-year-old communications manager from Chicago, moments after a pod of more than 100 bottle-nose dolphins crosses the ship's bow and plays in its wake. "It's like your're looking at a different animal."

The dolphins are among the stars of the trip, as are the gray whales. But for some, the high point comes on the last day as the Safari Endeavor pulls up to Los Islotes, a pair of rocky islands that are home to the largest sea lion colony in Baja. As passengers snorkel in the waters just off shore, more than a dozen of the playful creatures suddenly dart up to and and around them as if eager to show off their acrobatic skills. Some even nuzzle up to their new human friends or nibble at their flippers.

"It just kept kissing me!" beams Mimi Mitz, 68, of Joshua Tree, Calif., after a particularly frisky sea lion popped up behind her and rubbed its head along the back of hers.

Still, the new trip -- a revamped version of an itinerary Un-Cruise has offered for several years -- isn't just about exploring the outdoors and getting up close to wildlife. Among the stops is the small but historically important waterfront town of Loreto, founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries and home to the first Spanish mission of the Californias. Landing by Zodiac at its tiny, pelican-infested harbor, passengers spend a morning touring the centuries-old mission and adjacent historical district -- the start to the ancient Camino Real trail.

Originally launched in 1983, the Safari Endeavour is a comfortable ship if not super fancy. As is typical on small, expedition-style vessels, cabins are relatively simple with fixed twin beds in many rooms and tight but functional bathrooms. Only four of the cabins have (narrow) balconies, and in-room entertainment is limited to watching DVDs on small televisions. The vessel doesn't receive a satellite TV signal.

The Safari Endeavour also lacks the flashy public areas of big cruise ships. There is no showroom for nightly entertainment and no pool deck. The public spaces consist of just a few deck-top viewing areas (one with two hot tubs) and two interior rooms: a cozy lounge with a bar where passengers meet nightly for cocktails and a small dining room with just over a dozen tables.

But on this voyage, no one is complaining.

"I would not go on a big ship now to save my life," says Mitz, raving about the intimacy and adventure of an Un-Cruise formula that emphasizes small group exploration. "This is made for people who like to get out there and do stuff."

If you go ...

Un-Cruise Adventures' Safari Endeavour sails seven-night voyages in the Sea of Cortes from November through March, operating out of San Jose del Cabo at the tip of Mexico's Baja Peninsula. Fares for the trips start at $2,995 per person, based on double occupancy, including all meals, wine, beer and premium spirits; airport transfers; and shore tours.

The 84-passenger ship moves to Alaska for the summer, operating seven-night voyages out of Juneau that start at $4,195 per person. Like the Sea of Cortes sailings, the Alaska trips focus on outdoor activities and wildlife watching in remote areas.

Information: 888-862-8881; un-cruise.com

.