Restaurant review: Sunday bunch at Brix Project in Titusville is a winner
So, Executive Chef Justin Medina, you thought we would go to your restaurant on a Sunday morning for congenial brunch with you and two other James Beard Foundation Blended Burger Project chefs (Toni Elkhouri of Cedar’s and Brandon Bastista, the Bearded Chef; sorry you had to work, Kyle Hash of Pizza Gallery) as well as Chef Katherine Fridl, without a review to follow?
That wasn’t going to happen, especially after tasting what you put on the table at Playalinda Brewing Co. Brix Project. This is one of Brevard’s best brunches, but you probably don’t need to be told that. Thing is, the rest of Brevard should know.
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Let’s make it clear from the start: Brevardians who seek a buffet with omelet stations, meat in warmers, biscuits under the lights and a Sysco muffin at the end will find themselves out of place at your place, Justin. If, on the other hand, they crave a touch of creativity, they will flock to it. You may call Brix a brewery or a brewpub or whatever, but what you have is a dandy, stylish restaurant, and it is clear you are unafraid to exercise a little whimsy. Good.
Take those doughnuts ($10): Made by Tastee Donuts, a Titusville favorite probably since before Henry Titus got there, each of the “drunken” four, beautifully presented on a board with slices of fresh fruit, had just the faintest flavor of a certain spirit. One was Kahlua-ish. I want a dozen.
The bacon-wrapped shrimp with mango coulis ($9) were pretty darned delicious too, savory enough to be interesting, and the coulis was just tart-sweet enough, a lovely tribute to one of Brevard’s favorite fruits.
The Mondo ($25) was about as cheerful a creation as you’ll see on a breakfast-lunch table, certainly unlike anything else here. It is a gigantic cinnamon-sugar doughnut-roll, split, onto which goes a pound of ground beef, four pieces of Brix’s wonderful bacon, a sautéed onion, smoked gouda and brie and a swipe of maple-raspberry jam, to keep the doughnut theme alive.
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Some may have preferred the burger cooked to something less than medium, but à chacun son gout, know what I mean? Oh, and the menu shouldn’t lie about the bulky thing serving three. It can be divided five or six ways with no problem and no hunger afterward. Anyway, the combination works.
Banana split-stuffed French toast ($9) was pretty whimsical too: cinnamon brioche with raspberry, pineapple and an outstanding chocolate sauce, into which went banana cream cheese and onto which went vanilla ice cream. I don’t know what you did to those bananas, Justin, but you ought to bottle them.
, and the ciabatta in the Caprese breakfast toast ($9) probably should have been better-toasted, but the mozzarella, basil, guacamole and egg made this a far better avocado-toast thing than chain breakfast spots are doing.
Then there was the Chuckwagon ($9): cubes of red potatoes with a bit of sausage gravy, crisp chunks of real (not cold-cut) corned beef, shredded cheese and a fried egg. It alone is worth the trip to Titusville. So is the classically-inspired oyster pie with its local oysters, bacon lardons, mushroom and celery, under puff pastry ($10). Was that a hint of dry mustard?
If this is a hint of things to come, bring them on, because you have a Sunday-morning winner there. You’ve raised the culinary bar in Titusville once again. See you soon.
Shameless promotion of social media group/Brevard restaurants: Each Sunday, some of Brevard’s chefs and dining enthusiasts get together for brunch. Join us. See FLORIDA TODAY’s Facebook group, 321 Flavor: Where Brevard Eats, for details.
Playalinda Brewing Co. Brix Project (brunch)
Four stars
Address: 5220 S. Washington Ave., Titusville
Hours: Brunch: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday; otherwise, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday; 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
Call: 321-567-5974
Online:www.playalindabrewingcompany.com/taprooms/brix-project
Other: Specialty beers, wines and mixed drinks available for brunch, including a mimosa flight,
A wide and changing assortment of brews always is available at Brix, which is a working brewery with an outdoor beer garden as well as bar seating. Full bar. Children are welcome.
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
Five stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.
Four stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.
Three stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.
Two stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.
One star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.
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