Dining review: Agave in North Naples better? You bet
My latest dining adventure bills itself as “Naples better Mexican.” So how could I resist?
The inside of Agave, on Vanderbilt Beach Road in Naples, has a surprise around every corner. As you enter, there’s someone behind the counter making tortillas for the restaurant's tacos and homemade chips. Behind her is a nearly soundproof glass box, for private dining. The restaurant is cleaner than most, and a glass wall separates diners from the kitchen. So, you get to see what’s going on.
Things got off to an appetizing start with the “Mexican street corn,” or as you might know it, elotes.
It’s roasted corn on the cob, but instead of mayonnaise or cream, Agave uses chipotle aioli, along with standards like cotija cheese, lime and, in another surprise twist, beds it in sweet corn pudding. And just to mess with your mind, there’s little kernels of popped corn sprinkled on the cob. Heaven! There’s so much for the senses here: sweet, tangy and all around delectable.
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But I’m getting ahead of myself. Just so excited for the corn. So, few restaurants serve it. Along with complimentary chips and salsa, we opted for the fresh guacamole to be made tableside. You get to choose your ingredients, and one of the options had me concerned; what followed was a tasty delight. The added ingredient? Chihuahua cheese. It was one great guac. And I highly recommend you order it; since the salsa was nothing special.
For my main course, I ordered the carnitas tacos. And yes, I saved some of that delish guacamole to add in. For me, carnitas are the true test of any good Mexican restaurant. The shredded pork was lean, juicy and flavorful. It came with a side of beans, rice, lettuce, radishes and a lime wedge.
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I ate the sides first, and here comes my only complaint with this dish. Normally, when restaurants serve tacos with this generous amount of meat, they double up on the tortillas. Agave did not. Also, the tacos were presented in a holder, instead of flat. So, my first taco came apart midway through eating it. The second fell apart also immediately, and I ate it with, gasp, a fork.
My partner in dine ordered the chicken enchiladas. It came with the same rice and beans sides. They won his approval. He said the meat was more like a chicken tinga, meaning the sauce resided inside with the meat, versus a traditional topping. Tinga is chicken marinated in a chipotle, spice, tomato mixture. The cheese was melted onto the tortilla. It was a beautiful sight to behold.
So, is Agave better Mexican? You bet! And all the fancy comes with a little bit higher price, but given the surroundings, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
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If you go
Agave
2380 Vanderbilt Beach Road, Naples
239-598-3473