Meat & greet: It’s time to restore the butcher shop tradition

Do you know a butcher?

No, Lazar Wolfe, the village butcher from “Fiddler on the Roof,” does not count. Neither does that guy from Seville. Wait, that was a barber.

The food motto nowadays is know your farmer. But for home cooks, knowing — and trusting — your butcher may be just as important.

Meat is commonly the main course for dinner, the backbone of your entertaining menu and the most expensive item in the meal.

An increasing number of concerned consumers want to know more about their meat.

How do I cook this properly?

How do I prepare inexpensive cuts to taste great?

Where did this meat come from, and how were the animals treated?

To find answers about serving meat with confidence, a professional butcher at a dedicated meat market is the time-honored place to start.

Milwaukee home cook Brad Johansen has asked the many questions. You might even say he’s on a meat mission.

“I am pretty passionate about scoping out all the meat markets and farmers market stands in the area. I like to buy similar types of meat from various producers and cook/eat them side-by-side for flavor and quality comparisons,” he said. 

Johansen is a loyal customer of Kettle Range Meat Co., a butcher shop specializing in local grass-fed and pasture-raised meat at 5501 W. State St. He’s found Kettle Range to be the best combination of quality, variety, craftsmanship, responsible sourcing and price to suit his cooking needs.

In short, Johansen knows his butcher.

“I like to spend my money on meat that tastes really good and comes from places I trust,” he said.

Johansen said supermarket meat has not offered the transparencies he seeks, such as revealing how the animals are treated. “Even when larger chains aren’t recalling 17 tons of plastic-tainted beef, as one major retailer recently had to do, it can be difficult to find one that offers the knowledgeable service and high-quality meat found at dedicated butchers like Kettle Range,” he explained.

Where have all the butchers gone?

Sadly, Kettle Range Meat is just one of a comparatively few dedicated butcher shops left around southeastern Wisconsin.

Years ago, the shops were commonplace institutions of daily life. Even small rural towns could support a meat market.

In Milwaukee, there were hundreds of knowledgeable neighborhood butchers who interacted directly with home cooks.

“In the days before chain stores like A&P and IGA came to town, butcher shops were as numerous as mushrooms after a rain, often sharing street corners with bakeries, mom-and-pop grocery stores, and saloons,” said historian and author John Gurda. “The 1923 city directory listed nearly 700 butchers, from Adler’s on Green Bay Ave. to Zoeller’s on N. 27th St.”

Joe Parajecki, operations manager and master meat crafter at Kettle Range Meat, believes one of the reasons butchers are rare nowadays is because the meat industry got away from whole-animal butchery.

“It is also a job that is very physical, and you have to work in a refrigerator, which is not everyone’s cup of tea,” he explained. Parajecki is a member of the UW-Madison Meat Cutter Hall of Fame.

Fourth-generation butchers

Some longtime butcher shops are still around but have moved locations.

Nicole Weber and her two brothers, Vinnie and Sam Wysocki, are fourth-generation operators of House of Homemade Sausage at N112-W14934 Mequon Road in Germantown.

Weber’s great-grandparents opened the original House of Homemade Sausage in 1939 at N. 25th and W. Center St., then moved to N. 35th and W. Villard Ave. in 1951. In 1979, Weber’s parents opened the butcher shop in Germantown where it stands today.

“While the outside of the business may have changed, the quality of our product has not,” Weber said. “The three of us have continued to run our family business since 2000.

“Because there are not many butcher shops like us open anymore, we appreciate our loyal customer clientele. Still to this day, we have many customers that used to shop at our Villard Ave. store.”

Weber thinks there aren’t many butchers left partly because it’s convenient for shoppers to purchase meat from a big-box store.

But the pendulum may be swinging back as many cooks are seeking locally crafted foods served with a smile from someone they know. Weber calls it the “hometown feel.”

Being a butcher is “cool” again, according to Parajecki at Kettle Range, which opened just three years ago. Recently, he served on an advisory panel for Madison Area Technical College, where a new farm-to-table meat class will be offered this fall. The program will teach everything from animal husbandry to meat processing.

Butcher benefits

Even if a bona-fide butcher in a local meat market is relatively rare, the trusted relationship with home cooks remains the same.

Often, shoppers seek advice, Parajecki said. It’s a key part of the customer relationship that he values as a butcher.

“I love the interaction with my team and with customers. My team and I get to create something that is going to be the centerpiece of the meal table every day,” he said. “We get to help people cook really good food.”

Parajecki’s three favorite cuts are pork shank, pork steak and beef brisket.

“These are not cuts that everyone carries, but when cooked right, they are the most delicious cuts on the animal,” he said. His favorite steak: the chuck eye.

As for food transparency, Parajecki said because Kettle Range is small, it’s easy for them to trace the origins of every piece of meat in their store.

Consider ground meat, which is grinded in units called lots between cleanups. One lot of Kettle Range’s ground beef is only four to six head of beef. Compare that to “big-box” store ground beef where “there may be 10, 100 or thousands of head of beef in a single lot,” he said.

For an example of helpful butcher advice, take inexpensive but tricky round steak. This is not the flashiest cut of meat in many people’s recipe books.

Plus, there are three types of round steak to consider: the top, bottom and eye.

“Each has its own application,” according to Parajecki. “Top round makes a good grilling steak when it’s cut thick and marinated,” he said. Grill rare to medium, then slice thin across the grain.

“Bottom round makes an excellent pot roast,” he advised. “Eye of round is best roasted in a dry method at high heat until medium-rare and sliced thin, thin, thin. Top with a flavorful mushroom gravy and it is really satisfying.”

Just like “Cheers”

Butchers at Bunzel’s Old Fashioned Meat Market at 9015 W. Burleigh St. also offer plenty of sound meat guidance, according to Jeff Zupan, operations manager.

“Being a meat cutter is a trade, being a butcher is an art, and we do both.

“Our staff is versed in all areas of preparation and service,” Zupan said. “We are like ‘Cheers.’ We know hundreds of people by their names. Some have been with us from the beginning over 40 years ago.”

He added, “I think our saying here says it all: We want you to walk in as a customer and leave feeling that you are part of our family.”

For novice butcher shoppers, home cook Johansen offered some advice.

“Ask questions. If the person behind the counter is excited and open about their products and where they come from, it’s a good sign they’re legit,” he said.

“Also, start with simpler stuff and see if you can taste the difference. As much as I love a good dry-aged porterhouse, my favorite thing at Kettle Range is probably their hot dogs.”

Pets can also reap butcher benefits. Johansen said his three “spoiled” canines love the dog bones from Kettle Range. “No reason to give my pets toxic rawhide from China when I have a local butcher smoking beef bones from local farms,” he said.

Jennifer Rude Klett is a Wisconsin freelance writer of history, food and Midwestern life. Contact her at jrudeklett.com.

Find your butcher

For cooks craving that local butcher connection, here’s a list of dedicated retail butcher shops/meat markets we found in southeastern Wisconsin’s 10-county area:

Buddy’s Meat Market, 3620 S. Clement Ave., Milwaukee

House of Homemade Sausage, N112-W14934 Mequon Road, Germantown

C & R Market, 3001 S. 9th Place, Milwaukee

Butcher Block, 9340 S. Chicago Road, Oak Creek

Bavette La Boucherie, 330 E. Menomonee St., Milwaukee

Kettle Range Meats, 5501 W. State St., Milwaukee

LeRoy Meats & Catering of Horicon, 85 Washington St., Horicon

Schwai’s Meats & Sausage, W3940 County Hwy H, Fredonia and W62N601 Washington Ave., Cedarburg

Wilson Farm Meats, 406 S. Wisconsin St., Elkhorn

Danny’s Meats & Catering, 1317 4 Mile Road, Racine

Rivers Edge Meat Market & Catering, 521 S. Main St., Jefferson

Ray’s Butcher Shoppe, 4640 W. Loomis Road, Greenfield

Bunzel’s Old Fashioned Meat Market & Catering, 9015 W. Burleigh St., Milwaukee

Tower Chicken Farm, 4111 S. 6th St., Milwaukee

Brossman’s Meats, 6900 State Road 31, Racine

Daybreak Prime Meats and Deli, 622 Genesee St., Delafield

Hoff’s Quality Meats, 617 Main St., Brownsville

Lomeli Butcher Shop, 5525 18th Ave., Kenosha

Roberts’ Specialty Meats, 135 E. Sunset Drive, Waukesha

Usinger’s Famous Sausage, 1030 N. Old World 3rd St., Milwaukee

Glenn’s Market & Catering, 722 W. Main St., Watertown

Quality Cut Meats, 123 Milwaukee Ave., Cascade

Lake Geneva Country Meats, 5907 State Road 50 E, Lake Geneva

Held’s Meat Market, 480 Kettle Moriane Drive N, Slinger

Loehr’s Meat Service, 523 E. Main St., Campbellsport

Bucky’s Fine Meats & Sausage, 225 Bay View Road, Mukwonago

Sausage Haus Meat & Deli, 523 N. Oakwood Ave., Oconomowoc

Harry Hansen Meat Service, 10407 County Road K, Franksville

Karl’s Country Market, W156n5645 Pilgrim Road, Menomonee Falls

Rupena's Fine Foods, 7641 W. Beloit Road, Milwaukee

Gehring’s Meat Market, 5618 County Road K, Hartford

Kewaskum Frozen Foods, Kewaskum

Blau’s Saukville Meats, Saukville

*****

Chicken cutlets are thin strips of breast meat that cook quickly. Ginger, honey, garlic and walnuts unite in this recipe from Country Living for an addictive combination in this healthful entrée.

Prep all ingredients first, as the sautéing goes fast. Serve over your favorite rice alongside a crisp white wine.

Sautéed Chicken Cutlets with Honey-Ginger Walnuts

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 4 servings

Honey-ginger walnuts:

• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ teaspoon peeled fresh ginger, grated
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• ½ cup walnut halves
• 1 tablespoon honey
• ½ teaspoon coarse salt

Cutlets:

• 1 ¼ to 1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken cutlets
• ½ cup flour
• 4 to 6 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon peeled fresh ginger, grated
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• Juice from ½ lemon, plus zest if desired
• ¼ to ½ cup chicken broth
• Splash of white wine (optional)
• 2 tablespoons honey
• Hot cooked rice for serving
• 1 green onion (green part only), thinly sliced
• 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped

Make the honey-ginger walnuts: In a large sauté pan over medium heat, combine oil, ginger, garlic and walnuts. Cook about 2 minutes until fragrant. Add honey and cook until honey starts sticking to walnuts. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle with salt. Do not use paper towel, as walnuts will stick.

Prepare cutlets: In same large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add 4 tablespoons of the oil (add reserved 2 tablespoons oil later if needed). Spread flour on a large plate and lightly dredge cutlets; add to pan. Cook about 2 minutes per side until no longer pink and lightly browned. Cook cutlets in about two or three batches to not overcrowd the pan. Transfer cooked cutlets to the ginger walnut bowl.

Add any remaining oil if needed to pan, then ginger and garlic and cook until garlic sizzles, then add lemon juice, chicken broth and wine (if using) and honey. Scrape up any brown bits up off bottom of pan, then add walnuts and chicken to pan to heat thoroughly.

Serve with rice, and garnish with green onion and parsley.

*****

This recipe for Grilled Skirt Steak Tacos is courtesy of Brad Johansen of Milwaukee.

Brad’s Grilled Skirt Steak Tacos

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 4 to 6 servings

• 2 to 3 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce (canned), finely chopped with 2 to 3 spoonfuls of sauce
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• Juice of ½ lime, plus more for tossing and serving
• 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
• Chopped fresh cilantro to taste
• 1 pound grass-fed skirt steak
• Kosher salt and pepper to taste
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin (divided)
• 1 bell pepper (red, yellow or green or combination), sliced
• 1 onion, sliced
• 1 can (16 ounces) refried pinto beans or black beans (drain and rinse black beans) 
• 1 avocado, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces
• Tortillas of choice (Brad recommends handmade flour tortillas)
• Hot sauce of choice for topping (Brad recommends Valentina)

In a large bowl, combine chipotle peppers, adobo sauce, garlic, lime juice, oil and some of the cilantro; mix well.

Lightly season both sides of steak with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon cumin; add to bowl. Cover and marinate a few hours in refrigerator (or for the time it takes to drink a few beers, according to Brad). Preheat grill to medium-high heat.

Meanwhile, toss bell pepper, onion, remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, remaining 1 teaspoon cumin, more cilantro and more lime juice in a medium bowl and set aside.

Add beans to a medium saucepan and bring to bubbling on stovetop, then remove from heat, cover and keep warm.

Peel and dice avocado into a small bowl and set aside.

Grill steak and bell pepper and onion: cook steak 2 to 3 minutes per side to medium-rare and toss vegetables as needed to prevent excessive charring. Cut bell pepper and onion into bite-size pieces and place with steak on a platter and cover to keep warm.

Add tortillas to grill 10 to 20 seconds until they begin to puff. Remove and cover to keep warm. Slice steak against the grain and chop into bite-size pieces. Spread beans over tortillas, then load up with steak, grilled vegetables, avocado, hot sauce and additional cilantro and lime juice if desired.

*****

Simple Braised Bottom Round Steak with Better-Than-Candy Carrots will satisfy the meat-and-potato lovers. It all cooks in the same pot for easy cleanup. Add gravy for a family-favorite meal.

Braised Bottom Round Steak with Better-Than-Candy Carrots

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 4 to 6 servings

• 2 ½ pounds bottom round steak 
• 1 pound carrots, scrubbed and trimmed
• 8 to 10 medium russet potatoes, peeled
• Medium wedge of an onion 
• Salt and pepper to taste
• About 3 cups water
• Chopped parsley (optional)
• Jar of 1 cup water with about ½ cup flour (for gravy), shaken

Add round steak to a preheated extra-large electric skillet, and brown several minutes at 350 degrees. Salt and pepper, then turn steak to brown other side; salt and pepper again. While meat is browning, prepare potatoes, carrots and onion. Once second side of meat is browned, add vegetables and generously salt and pepper. Reduce heat to a high simmer, add about ½ cup water, cover and cook about 45 minutes to an hour. Turn veggies after 30 minutes, ensuring each gets some contact with the pan. Salt and pepper again. Check every 20 minutes or so to make sure there is a small amount of water in the pan but not too much to interfere with the flavorful browning.

When vegetables are soft but not mushy, remove everything from pan and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

For gravy, add 2 cups water to pan, turn up heat, then stir in the jar of flour and water mixture. Heat until bubbly and desired consistency.

*****

Hearty Norwegian Meatballs with Pork & Beef is adapted from a recipe from Tahera Horstman of Ixonia.

Norwegian Meatballs with Pork & Beef

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 6 servings

• 1 egg, beaten
• 2 slices whole-grain bread, grated on large-holed grater into crumbs (or use food processor)
• ¼ onion, chopped
• ¼ cup chopped parsley
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
• ½ pound ground beef
• ½ pound ground pork
• 1 cup water plus more if needed
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 teaspoons beef bouillon
• Jar of ½ cup water and 2 tablespoons flour, shaken
• Cream, whole milk or a combination to equal about ½ cup
• Hot cooked noodles for serving

Combine egg, bread crumbs, onion, parsley, salt, pepper, garlic, allspice, nutmeg, beef and pork in a large bowl using hands. Shape into round meatballs about 1 ½ inches in diameter. Cook in a large electric skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, turning a few times for even browning. Add a little water so pan does not dry out, cover and cook about 3 or 4 minutes.

Whisk in the 1 cup water, the butter, bouillon, jar of water/flour mixture and cream or milk. If sauce is too thick, add more water. Cook until bubbling hot and desired consistency. Serve over noodles.