A 'cleaner, brighter' Wisconsin brat is yours if you buy organic

Bust out the brats. Memorial Day is almost here. It’s time for hot summer nights, cold bottles of beer and a platter of juicy, flavorful brats.

Nestled in a warm bun after a nice beer bath, there’s nothing better. But how about if that brat were something more? What if it were also organic?

RELATED:Roots Kitchen in Sister Bay is all about the brat and beer

What makes a brat organic?

With more consumers seeking out organic foods, it seems only natural that the beloved bratwurst receive an organic makeover.

You might have seen “natural” bratwurst in stores from time to time. Foods labeled natural are minimally processed and free of artificial colors, flavors and additives. But organic is something else. Organic certification means a third party has certified that the meat has met a slew of far-ranging USDA regulations.

Those regulations pertain not only to what is in the product, but also to how the product is produced. For beef, pork or poultry to be organic, it has to have come from animals that were fed only organic feed or grasses, had significant access to the outdoors and were raised free of antibiotics and growth hormones. 

“Organic certification has very strict rules, especially around animal welfare and treating the animals as humanely as possible,” explained Ellie France, brand manager for meat, snacks and prepared foods of Organic Prairie, based in La Farge. For example, “there are a certain amount of days that the animal has to be out in pasture.”

And it’s not just the feed that must be certified as organic. The land must be, too.

“Making sure the animals are walking on lush pastures and grasses that have not been subjected to pesticides or any sort of chemicals added to the grass is an additional layer,” France said.

Meet the family

Organic Prairie is part of the Organic Valley Family of Farms, the largest organic farmer-owned cooperative in North America. More than 2,000 individual farm families raise organic beef, chicken, pork and dairy products that are turned into various products — including organic precooked brats — under either the Organic Prairie or Organic Valley label.

The Cooperative is celebrating 30 years of producing organic products.

“We were making organic meats before there was a certified organic stamp for it,” France said. The Organic Food Production Act of 1990 required that the USDA develop national standards for organic products. The final organic rules were established in 2000 by the National Organic Program, the federal regulatory body that governs the production of organic food.

“We have 43 farm families that produce pork for our bratwurst line,” France said, adding that they raise primarily three breeds of hogs: Chester Whites, Berkshire and Duroc.  

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One of those families is the Campbells of Iowa County. Three generations of Campbells — Jim along with his wife, Sheila, their son Isaac and Jim’s father — work together on their southwest Wisconsin farm to raise 80 to 90 Berkshire pigs each year.

“They run and play just like kids,” Jim Campbell said. “They are very curious. I don’t crowd them or push them. They have a two-acre pasture with some woods to play in.”
The Campbell farm was certified organic in 2003.

“When folks ask me what’s the difference between farming organic and conventional, I explain that organic probably takes more of my time, but it takes less of my money.

“Organic, pasture-based management made farming fun again. I like what I do. It’s a good fit. It’s not that I really needed to be a better manager, but I got better anyway, because I’m doing exactly what I love to do.”

Organic and (possibly) holy

Waseda Farms in Bailey’s Harbor is another source of organic brats, in various flavors. The farm animals here not only enjoy lush pastures, organic feed and flavorful grasses, they may also be blessed.

Originally known as the O’Brien Farm, the land was donated in the early 1960s to the Priests of the Sacred heart. The priests worked the land for more than 47 years, enjoying the peaceful pastures for meditation as well as farming.

“We think of the land as holy,” Waseda Farms president Matt Lutsey explained. “Sometimes you will walk the pastures and find relics of the days when the land belonged to the Jesuits.”  

That’s one reason the sign welcoming folks to the farm lists “holy cows.”

Lutsey’s father, Tom, originally purchased the property as a pet project to keep him busy in retirement. The hobby farm quickly grew. The original herd of six has grown into more than 100 Black Angus cattle, all who enjoy a natural salad bar of more than 20 different grasses.

Although certified organically raised beef was Waseda’s original product line, the business has since expanded to include chickens, eggs and pork. As a Wisconsin business, it seemed natural to add organic bratwurst to its products, made with pork from Berkshire hogs.

“It’s very well marbled and has great taste,” Lutsey said of the pork. Although Waseda offers a traditional plain organic brat, they let their creative juices flow when coming up with other flavors.

Some of the most popular? The Bloody Mary brat, the habanero brat, the red white and blue brat (red bell peppers, while onions and blue cheese) and, of course, a Door County cherry brat made with locally picked Montmorency cherries. 

“I’d say we have produced over 100 flavors of brats,” Lutsey said. “Brats are a great palette to work with and are amazingly versatile. The flavor combinations are only limited by your imagination.” 

Waseda’s organic brats are all raw. Because they are hand tied and not as tightly packed in the casings as brats from larger companies, Lutsey recommends cooking them directly on the grill, not precooking them in liquid, which can cause them to break.

The bottom line

Organic meat, including bratwurst, is more expensive than conventionally raised meat, often more than 30% higher. Stone Bank Farm Market in Waukesha County sells Waseda Farms’ certified organic Door County cherry bratwurst for $9.50 a pound. A 19-ounce package of Johnsonville original bratwurst comes in around $6.59 a package. Is the extra expense worth it?

In my experience, I found the brats produced from pasture-raised, organically certified animals that savor fresh air, sun and natural grasses had a cleaner, brighter taste. Plus, along with many consumers, I like knowing exactly what went into that brat I was enjoying with a nice frosty beer.

Terri Milligan is a professional chef and culinary instructor who lives in Door County, Wis. ,and Phoenix. For additional recipes, visit chefterrimilligan.com.

Where to find organic brats

Waseda Farms organic brats are available at:

Waseda Farms and Country Market, 7281 Logerquist Road, Baileys Harbor. (920) 839-2222, wasedafarms.com. Bratwurst available at the Farm’s Country Market, and it can be ordered by phone.

Stone Bank Farm Market, N68-W33208 County Road K and Hwy C, Stone Bank. stonebankmarket.com

The Village Market Specialty Foods, 806 S. Main St., Fond du Lac. (920) 922-2265, villagemarketfdl.com/

For markets in your area that carry Waseda Farms products, visit Waseda Farms Eat Local.

Organic Prairie brats are available at: 

Organic Prairie, 1 Organic Way, La Farge. Products available online at organicprairie.coop.com

Sendik’s Food Market, 500 E. Silver Spring Drive, Whitefish Bay. (414) 962-9525, sendiksmarket.com  

Sendik’s Food Market, 10930 N. Port Washington Road, Mequon. (262) 241-9525, sendiksmarket.com  

Other stores, including Whole Foods and Outpost Natural Foods stores, carry organic bratwurst, but not from Wisconsin. 

RECIPES

Collin and Sara Doherty of Roots Inn and Kitchen use a crunchy, colorful slaw tossed in a coconut lime dressing to top one of their most popular brat offerings.

Coconut Lime Slaw Brat

Recipe tested by Terri Milligan

Makes 6 servings

Dressing:

• ½ cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 1 ½ teaspoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
• ¼ cup vegetable oil

Slaw:

• 1 ¼ cups shredded green cabbage
• ½ cup shredded carrots
• ½ cup bean sprouts
• ¼ cup julienned snap peas
• 3 green onions, roots removed, thinly sliced

Brats:

• 6 grilled organic bratwurst
• 6 toasted brat buns
• 1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
• ½ cup chopped unsalted peanuts

Make dressing: In a mixing bowl, combine coconut milk, lime juice, fish sauce, brown sugar and shallot. Whisk to combine. Slowly whisk in vegetable oil.

Make slaw: Combine cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts, snap peas and green onion. Toss with dressing.

To assemble: Place cooked brats in toasted buns. Top with slaw. Garnish with sesame seeds and peanuts.

Roots Inn at Kitchen in Sister Bay uses Waseda Farms organic pork brats for its version of French Onion soup on a brat.

The French Onion Bratwurst

Recipe tested by Terri Milligan

Makes 4 servings

• 3 ounces unsalted butter
• 2 white onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 2 tablespoons dry beef base or 2 beef bouillon cubes
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4 grilled organic bratwurst
• 4 toasted brat buns
• ½ cup finely shredded Swiss cheese
• 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves

In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Add onions. Cook, stirring periodically, until translucent, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add beef base or bouillon cubes. Stir constantly until base or cubes are dissolved. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Spoon generous amounts of onions over cooked bratwurst in buns. Top with Swiss cheese and fresh thyme.

A popular flavored organic pork brat from Waseda Farms is the Door County cherry brat. Waseda brats are hand-made and tied and work best directly cooked on the grill. Waseda’s Matt Lutsey suggests resting the brat on a bed of sauerkraut and topping it with tart cherry chutney.

Waseda Farms’ Cherry Chutney Brat

Recipe tested by Terri Milligan

Makes 6 servings

Cherry chutney:

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ cup diced red bell peppers
• ¼ cup finely diced white onion
• 1 garlic cloves, finely minced
• ¼ cup balsamic vinegar
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar
• 2 cups pitted fresh tart cherries, cut in half
• ¼ cup dried tart cherries
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
• Salt and pepper to taste

Brats:

• 1 ¼ cups sauerkraut
• 6 grilled Waseda Farms cherry bratwurst
• 6 toasted brat buns

Prepare chutney: In a medium pot, heat olive oil over medium-low heat. Add bell peppers, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, 4 minutes until softened but not browned. Add both vinegars. Simmer 2 minutes.

Add fresh and dried cherries, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Simmer 25 to 30 minutes, until mixture is cooked down and thickened. Remove from heat. Add fresh thyme leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Chutney can be used immediately or refrigerated up to one week.

To serve: Place sauerkraut on bottom portion of buns. Top with cooked cherry bratwurst. Finish with generous amount of cherry chutney.

Organic Prairie shared a favorite preparation of its precooked organic brats, which are finished with a homemade maple beer mustard.

Organic Valley Beer Brats with Maple Beer Mustard

Recipe tested by Terri Milligan

Makes 10 servings

Beer brats:

• Four cans (12 ounces each) beer
• 2 tablespoons unsalted organic butter
• 2 large onions, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rings
• 10 Organic Prairie pork (precooked) bratwurst
• 10 brat buns

Maple beer mustard:

• 1/3 cup yellow mustard seed
• 1/3 cup brown mustard seed
• 1/3 cup white wine vinegar
• 1/3 cup of your favorite beer
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard
• 3 tablespoons maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

Prepare brats: Preheat outdoor grill to 375 degrees.

On a stovetop or outdoor grill burner, combine beer, butter and sliced onions in a pan or Dutch oven large enough to accommodate the brats. Bring to a boil. Add brats. Reduce to a simmer. Cook until heated through, about 10 minutes.

Remove brats from beer onion mixture. Keep mixture. Place brats on grill. Grill, turning once until browned. Serve immediately or place back into the beer onion mixture. The brats, in the onion mixture, can be kept in the Dutch oven or transferred to a grill-safe pan and placed on grill turned down to low heat to keep warm.

Prepare the mustard: In a bowl, combine all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Using a rubber spatula, transfer mustard mixture into a blender. Process until smooth. Alternately, the mixture can be blended directly in the bowl using a handheld immersion blender. Store mustard in a covered jar in refrigerator for up to 1 week.