Dining review: Simplicity is its strength at Chez Guy Parisian Bistro in North Naples
Shelby ReynoldsChez Guy Parisian Bistro doesn't do pretty.
There are no expert plating techniques — no swath of creamy sauce painted on the plate, no herb garnishes, no talk of symmetry, color contrast or texture combinations.
Except for a white paper doily underneath many of the dishes at the French restaurant that opened in December, the food looks, frankly, a little ugly.
On a recent Friday evening visit, the French onion soup looked like a congealed mass of cheese, and the duck confit was served over a grayish, not-exactly-appetizing-looking white bean cassoulet.
But here's the thing — who says it has to look good to taste good?
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Chez Guy (pronounced "shay ghee") is nestled into a shopping center on the northwest corner of Airport-Pulling and Pine Ridge roads. It's the latest product of chef-restarauteur Guy Minet, who formerly co-owned French American Bistro in North Naples and Pizza Mia at Dockside Boardwalk in Naples.
At Chez Guy, Minet's the guy in the chef's coat who sometimes roams the dining room, wooing his customers with his thick, French lilt
His accent matches the restaurant's coastal-French atmosphere — all blues and whites with a pretty tile mosaic on the back wall and an ornate column covered with seashells. Curtains have been thoughtfully hung to block the headlights from cars in the parking lot out front.
The escargot ($10) is a no-brainer at any French restaurant, and these little guys didn't disappoint. The snails came out sizzling in its bath of garlic butter and sautéed herbs. The snails were tender and had that delicious "pop" you'd expect from quality escargot.
And just say "oui" to the French onion soup ($10), served in a little cauldron filled to the brim with melted cheese. Let it cool first, though, or dig in, like I did, and burn your tongue because you simply couldn't resist. Chunks of the marinated onion sloughed off with each spoonful, and every bite of stretchy cheese sent a splattering of soup droplets all over the paper tablecloth. The French onion soup might not be a looker, but that didn't matter two bites in.
The star of the duck confit ($26) didn't end up being the crisp duck leg — some bites snarled in thick skin that was nearly impossible to chew — but the white bean cassoulet underneath. The buttery mix featured slices of sausage, and I happily scooped up hearty spoonful after spoonful. It's the kind of dish you could cuddle up with on the couch if Southwest Florida had any cold, winter days.
We'd just prefer a less crisp duck.
The same could be said for the beef Bourguignon ($28), with bite-sized chunks of beef slow-cooked in red wine and served with roasted carrots and mushrooms and ribbons of fettuccine. The beef required lots of chewing, a sign that it was slightly overdone, while the veggies were perfectly tender. The gravy had a strong wine flavor, which we liked — another comfort food worthy of couch snuggling.
The pistachio crème brûlée ($10) can't be ignored off Chez Guy's list of all housemade desserts. More custard than cream, the dessert had the satisfying crunchy top with bits of caramelized pistachios as garnish — probably the prettiest dish that came to our table.
Although a little slow once the restaurant started to get busy that Friday night, service was kind and helpful. The staff kept waters filled and were quick to deliver food.
At Chez Guy there are no surprises, no fancy methods, no straying from the usual — just simple French cuisine. And we're OK with that.
The Naples Daily News pays for all meals for dining reviews. We do not solicit or accept free meals.
Chez Guy Parisian Bistro
- Where: 5447 Airport-Pulling Road N., in the Bed Bath and Beyond Plaza, North Naples
- Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to closing Mondays through Saturdays; closed Sundays
- Prices: Appetizers $8-$14; entrees $24-$36; sides $6; dessert $9-$12
- More information: 239-431-5824; chezguynaples.com
- Forks: 4 out of 5