Snap, crackle, pop: Ready-to-eat cereal changed America by the bowlful

It began as tasteless broken bricks of graham flour and water called granula during the U.S. Civil War. It’s now found in virtually every kitchen in America . . . ready-to-eat breakfast cereal has become a success symbol of modern commercialized food.

Cereal, an American — and some would say Midwestern — innovation, has become a worldwide industry.

One bowl at a time, it has helped change the way we eat, and so much more: agriculture, marketing, business, media, entertainment, government farm policies, public health and even the demand for milk.

Though cereal sales have slightly declined over the past few years, they still totaled a staggering $7.7 billion in annual sales as of 2017, with 92% of American households buying 2.7 billion boxes, according to statisticbrain.com.

Cereal is the fourth most common packaged good sold in U.S. retail stores. 

Affordable variety

Next time you’re at the supermarket, take a long look at the amount of coveted shelf space and strategic product placement enjoyed by cereals; you may be bowled over.

“Cereal is still very important,” said James J. Hyland, vice president of communications and public affairs for Roundy’s Supermarkets based in Milwaukee. “It is still one of the most affordable breakfast options on a per-serving basis for consumers, and it does provide a variety for kids and adults.

“Natural-item offerings are in demand, as are the good old basics like Cheerios and Raisin Brain.”

Of the top three cereal grains, corn tops the list at over 650 million metric tons; rice and wheat follow at over 580 million each. After that, over 270 million metric tons of barley, sorghum, millet, oats and rye help make up the rest.

Unfortunately for our collective waistlines, more than 815 million pounds of sugar are also used in cereal every year.

Not only is cereal originally an American product, it’s a Midwestern one.

“Ready-to-eat breakfast cereal is an American product, and give the Midwest honors for the creation and propagation of the product — especially if we include cities from Buffalo to Minneapolis with Battle Creek the early epicenter,” said Topher Ellis, co-author with Marty Gitlin of “The Great American Cereal Book: How Breakfast Got Its Crunch” (Harry J. Abrams, 2011).

Wisconsin, he explained, is “sandwiched between Kellogg’s in Michigan and Post (formerly of Michigan) and Big G (General Mills) in Minnesota.”

Interestingly, the book also mentions a cereal made in Madison in the early 1910s called Farm Pride Shredded Wheat, made by the E. W. White Cereal Co.

The days of hot breakfast

Before ready-to-eat cereal, breakfast for many Americans used to mean ham, bacon, eggs, toast, oatmeal or flapjacks.

Someone with a modicum of domestic skills had to prepare it — and clean up after. Cooking breakfast took acumen. Doubters need only watch the scene in the 1942 film, “Woman Of The Year,” when a bumbling Katharine Hepburn attempts to make breakfast for Spencer Tracy.

Breakfast was hot, which meant everyone in the household had to sit down together and eat the same food or they would go hungry until lunch.

“In the early 20th century, most Americans were more physically active than now,” said Martha Carlin, professor of history at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. “Fewer households had cars, kids walked or rode bikes to school, and they might have chores to do before or after (newspaper route, lawn mowing, etc.). There were fewer labor-saving appliances, and a smaller percentage of adults had office jobs than now.

“A hearty breakfast gave children and adults alike a good start to a physically demanding day.”

Early 20th-century households often had three generations living together. Plus, paid domestic help was much more common up until the 1960s, even for middle-class families.

As households and lifestyles changed, convenient breakfast cereal helped meet a need.

Today, Carlin said families are smaller with more single-adult homes.

“A heavy, meaty breakfast is no longer important or even appealing to many Americans, and the convenience of ready-to-eat cereals is irresistible in our busy lives,” she said.

Marketing to kids

Originally, cereal was sold as a mass-marketed health food.

Children quickly became targets for radio and television sponsors as they could influence their parents’ buying decisions. Colorfully packaged cereal was something they could prepare by themselves in the morning. Sugary varieties quickly flooded the industry.

In the 1970s, cereals such as granolas and Grape Nuts began advertising themselves as healthy and back-to-nature foods.

Roundy’s Hyland predicts that natural and organic cereal sales will continue to grow and manufacturers will refocus on classics such as Cheerios, Raisin Bran and Special K with “cleaner ingredient lines — highlighting such on packaging and in advertising.”

But some cereal fans freely admit their affection for sugary cereals.

“I have no qualms about my sad need for Fruity Pebbles," said Robert Laplander of Tichigan, a tire mechanic.

Laplander, also a musician, songwriter and World War I author, describes himself as a “Fruity Pebbles junkie and Frosted Flakes fanatic.”

“It’s tasty and quick and reminds me of childhood," he said. "Cereal = Happiness. It’s a terrific comfort food no matter where you are.”

His three children agree. They routinely dig into Honey Nut Cheerios, Apple Jacks, Honeycombs, Sugar Smacks and Chex. His wife, Trinie, loves Krave, a chocolate cereal from Kellogg's.

Laplander even has a Tony the Tiger collectible bowl, “Sometimes I let my youngest use it. Sometimes.”

Jennifer Rude Klett is a Wisconsin freelance writer of history, food, and Midwestern life. Contact her at jrudeklett.com.

And it’s recipe-ready

For home cooks, home cereal is also a convenience food, an ingredient ready to add to vegetables, fish, meat, baked goods, desserts and snacks.

Here are a few cooking guidelines from “The Cereal Lover’s Cookbook” by Lauren Chattman (Wiley, 2006):

• More than one cereal manufacturer usually makes the same cereal, and it's worth comparing ingredient labels and prices. This includes lower-priced generic and supermarket brands.
• Use a similar flavor and texture when substituting different cereals in recipes, such as oat flakes for wheat flakes.
• Cereal can be substituted for flour, breadcrumbs, grains, etc., but check specific recipes for best results.
• Cook with whatever cereals you normally stock to prevent waste. If not using cereal within a few weeks, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer.
• For recipes calling for crushed cereal, coarsely crush using fingers, or whack cereal in a zipper-lock bag with a rolling pin for fine crumbs.

Browned butter lends plenty of grown-up appeal to this classic bar recipe, along with chunky pockets of dark chocolate and macadamia nuts. The cook’s challenge is to refrain from sampling while it’s warm and gooey.

Dark Chocolate & Macadamia Rice Krispies Bars

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 24 bars

• ¾ cup macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped and toasted (toasting is optional)
• 12 tablespoons (1 ½ sticks) butter, browned
• 1 bag (16 ounces) mini marshmallows (regular-size work but take longer to melt)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 8 ½ cups crispy rice cereal (just under a 9-ounce box of Rice Krispies)
• 1 cup dark chocolate chips

Line a 13-by-9-inch pan with parchment paper and lightly butter.

In a very large pot over medium-low heat and stirring frequently, toast macadamia nuts a few minutes until aromatic, then transfer to a nearby bowl.

In same large pan, melt butter over medium to medium-high heat. Whisk butter until it foams and turns a dark golden color (brown bits at bottom are OK). Add marshmallows and stir until mostly melted. Remove from heat; add vanilla and salt and stir to incorporate. Add cereal and nuts and gently mix. Finally, add chocolate chips. Don’t worry if the chips begin to melt, as the chocolate will cool into delectable clusters.

Transfer mixture to prepared pan and press with fingers or leftover butter wrappers into an even layer. Sprinkle the top with a few pinches of Rice Krispies for a pretty look. Let cool for at least an hour before lifting out of pan by the parchment paper and cutting.

Here’s a delicious main course that delivers an easy baking method and cleanup with the satisfying crunch of fried fish. Cod can be substituted for salmon. The recipe is adapted from kelloggs.com.

Corn Flakes & Parmesan Crusted Salmon

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 2 servings

• 2 salmon fillets (about 6 ounces each)
• ½ cup corn flakes cereal (measure first, then coarsely crush)
• ¼ cup sliced almonds, chopped
• ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, room temperature
• ¼ teaspoon teaspoon garlic powder
• ½ teaspoon dried basil
• ½ teaspoon course salt
• ¼ teaspoon pepper
• ½ teaspoon dried parsley
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
• 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
• Lemon wedges for serving

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Place fish skin side down in a greased shallow baking dish. In a medium bowl, combine crushed cereal, almonds, butter, garlic powder, basil, salt, pepper, parsley, lemon peel and Parmesan. Spread cereal/butter mixture over top of fillets; pat gently. Bake uncovered in preheated oven 20 to 25 minutes (depending on thickness of salmon) until thickest part is opaque and flaky. Internal temperature should reach at least 145 degrees. Serve with lemon wedges.

Serve these irresistible Grape Nut frittatas with brunch, dinner or as buffet finger food. Allow about three per person. The recipe was inspired by postcereals.co.uk.

Spinach & Cheddar Mini Frittatas with Grape Nuts

Recipe tested by Jennifer Rude Klett

Makes 4 servings

• 6 eggs
• ½ cup milk
• ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
• ¼ teaspoon dried onion
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ⅛ teaspoon pepper
• 1 packed cup fresh spinach, chopped
• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
• ½ cup Grape Nuts cereal

Preheat oven to 350 degrees; heavily grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan (even a nonstick).

In a large bowl, beat eggs and milk. Stir in red pepper flakes, onion, salt and pepper until well blended. Add spinach, cheese and Grape Nuts cereal, and mix well.
Divide mixture into 12 muffin wells. Bake in preheated oven 20 minutes or until just set. Cool on rack 5 minutes and remove from pan. Serve warm.