Blogger/author found renewed health through vegan diet

When Gena Hamshaw sits down to think about a meal, it begins with taste. Food has to taste good. The second part of the equation is nutrition. 

After years of struggling with an eating disorder, Hamshaw is now a nutritionist, food blogger and cookbook writer, finishing up her master of science degree in nutrition and education at Teacher’s College, Columbia University.

Her relationship with food hasn’t always been a simple one. That’s exactly what has helped her think about food in different ways and has pushed her forward. 

In 2009, she started blogging and sharing her recipes at thefullhelping.com. The evolution of her cooking can be seen through her three cookbooks, starting with “Choosing Raw,” her first. While she still believes in those recipes and raw ingredients, she’s come to embrace plant-based menus in their entirety. The author of “Food52: Vegan” has just published her third cookbook, “Power Plates: 100 Nutritionally Balanced, One-Dish Vegan Meals” (Ten Speed Press, $24.99). 

Question: How did you come to study nutrition and write cookbooks? 

Answer: Food has always played a really big part of my life, in ways that have alternately been really nourishing and very destructive.

I grew up very interested in food, but I had an eating disorder for most of my teen years and into my early 20s. I was always fascinated by food, but it didn’t take the healthiest form for many years.

When I was in my 20s, I decided to tackle recovery with the real intention of staying healthy. A year or two later is when I started to explore veganism. 

I had stopped eating red meat as a kid, I had sort of been moving away from animal proteins altogether in college. I was getting a handle on digestive issues, and I decided to cut out dairy at the direction of my GI doctor. That got me close to vegan, as I was not eating a lot of eggs, chicken or fish.

I wasn’t setting out to do that and identify that, and I didn’t tell people right way. But vegan was really working for me. Veganism showed me that my relationship with food stretched far beyond me; my food choices had an impact.

I had not grown up cooking a lot, but I realized if I was going to stick with veganism and nourish my body, it was time to learn to cook. My blog was born from that. 

Q: What makes vegan eating your focus? 

A: When I decided to cut out dairy, I just wanted to see how I would feel. I wanted to see how each food was impacting my body. Then I visited a farm sanctuary, and that was the weekend I really think I knew I would continue and knew that was what was going to make veganism a part of my life and purpose. 

Q: Have you seen a shift in how people view vegan diets and plant-based menus?

A: Veganism at this point is growing so much and so quickly I’d hesitate to say I know who the average vegan is. People are exploring veganism for so many reasons.  

Q: What’s your game changer, must-have ingredient? 

A: Nutritional yeast. I joke about my obsession with it, but it is because cheese is so important for so many people. It is the hardest thing to do without. It is often easier for people to live without having meat or poultry than cheese. Anything that makes cheesy flavor is key. 

That’s also where my obsession with cashews grew, blending them to make creamy sauces and dressings. The split pea corn chowder in “Power Plates” uses cashew cream for that distinctive creamy consistency that is key. A lot of the non-dairy milks I tried didn’t do it. 

Cashews and nutritional yeast were a big part of what made the transition to vegan easier for me personally. It is evoking the same sort of flavors and textures. It won’t be the same, but it is helping to hit those same notes in your cooking.  

Q: How has studying nutrition influenced your approach to recipe writing and cooking?

A: I’m studying to be an RDN (registered dietitian nutritionist), getting my master’s degree in nutrition science with a focus in nutrition education. 

I’m less focused on the nutrient properties of food in granular ways these days and more on eating patterns, the sort of overall qualities of people’s diets. What I’ve learned in my studies is people’s overall eating patterns affect their health. 

With “Power Plates” there is a nutritional purpose, to help people transitioning to vegan, or longtime vegans, keep balance and stay full and satisfied. One of the challenges when you’re adopting a vegan diet (is that) many of us grew up with animal protein and starch on our plate. That’s how I grew up. It can be challenging to see what is a complete (vegan) meal. 

Q: How does social media play into recipe writing?

A: A lot of my feedback comes through Instagram these days. Unlike with blog writing and comments, if people make one of my recipes they can show me how it turned out. Social media has become a huge part of recipe development with a dialogue. Instagram is my favorite.

Q: Do you have a favorite recipe from this new cookbook?

A: No. I can tell you which of the recipes in Power Plates that I have made most often. It is always interesting to observe which recipes you make over and over again after writing a book. The rice and beans with tofu and greens is so nutritious and flavorful, that one has been a huge favorite. 

This dish grew out of Gena Hamshaw's love of rice and beans and a tendency to load up the dish with extras: greens, peppers, sautéed mushrooms, tofu or tempeh, and whatever else strikes her fancy. It’s fast and filling, and it all comes together in a single pot. If naked tofu is a turnoff for you, feel free to use 8 ounces smoked or baked tofu instead.

Rice, Beans, Tofu and Greens

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 white or yellow onion, chopped

1 small bell pepper, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon salt

1 ½ cups cooked black beans, or 1 can (15 ounces), drained and rinsed

1 can (14.5 ounces) diced or crushed tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted

1 cup white or brown basmati or long-grain white rice

2 ¾ cups water

1 block (15 ounces) extra-firm tofu, preferably pressed, cut into ¾-inch cubes

1 small bunch collard greens or other greens, stemmed and cut into thin strips

Red pepper flakes (optional)

Freshly squeezed lime juice

Crumbled corn chips (optional)

Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

Lime wedges (optional)

Hot sauce (optional)

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes, until onion is tender and translucent. Stir in cumin, chili powder, paprika and salt, then stir in beans, tomatoes, rice and water. Add tofu and stir gently to combine. Bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover and simmer, stirring gently from time to time, until rice is tender, about 20 minutes for white rice, 40 minutes for brown. 

Add greens, cover and simmer 5 to 10 minutes, until greens are wilted. Season with red pepper flakes and stir in lime juice to taste. Taste and adjust seasonings if desired. Serve right away, with crumbled corn chips, cilantro, lime and hot sauce, if desired, or any additional toppings you like.