Let’s Talk Food: Comfort foods bring back simpler times

These are not the best of times, but take solace in knowing that while those Wall Street suits and the Washington pols are eating crow, most Americans are finding comfort at the table.

For the first time in several decades, our diets are including those inexpensive and soul-soothing foods of the past. Rich and expensive is out and, instead, more families are eating at home — gathering at the table together and indulging in vittles that remind us of simpler times.

Newspapers and magazines are returning to publishing recipes that are nourishing and easy to prepare with the emphasis on comfort foods. And comfort is a paramount factor in surviving hard times.

Sue Kreitman summed it all up in her book, “Comfort Foods,” published in 1986: “Comfort foods don’t take us back to the womb but to the period shortly thereafter when we were safely cradled and gently fed. Fragrant, gutsy stews, thick chunky soup and bubbling casseroles make us feel safe, warm and well protected from the raging elements. Old-fashioned desserts that contain plenty of texture and temperature contrasts help us surrender to sensual pleasure and so forget the stress of a sometimes cruel world.”

This is an opportunity for the chief cook and bottle washer in households to tackle the problem of the food budget and to introduce the family to real nourishing food instead of those calorie-laden fast foods that are so much a part of American culture.

In the 30 years I have written this column I estimate that at least 40 percent of the requests are for foods remembered in childhood. Often such foods bring back happy memories of childhood, beloved family members who have passed on and nostalgia for significant occasions.

Difficult times have had significant changes in our attitude about food. This summer saw a tremendous increase in the cultivation of gardens. Throughout the country, in cities and small towns, neighbors have come together to create community gardens and this has saved those participating considerable money.

Favorite comfort foods are often soft and soothing. Homemade soups are nourishing and can be made in large quantities and frozen. These provide comfort, nourishment and are healthy. One cannot mention comfort foods without accolades to the favorite macaroni and cheese, meat loaf and mashed potatoes, chicken or beef pot pies. Childhood desserts are coming back and the new generation is learning the joys of rice pudding, bread pudding, banana pudding, baked apples and, yes, even Jello is making a comeback. One of our staple commodities, bread, has risen in price and many families are creating weekend projects of baking their own bread and pastries.

Here are some of the most comforting of comfort foods, sure to bring back memories of childhood when mom and grandmother were in the kitchen creating dishes that have remained in your memory.

MACARONI AND CHEESE

This ultimate comfort food dates back to Thomas Jefferson’s time when he introduced the dish to the politicians of his time. It has been jazzed up, improved, changed and upscaled. This recipe is a simple version that was popular during the Depression and appeared in the first edition of “The Joy of Cooking.”

1 pound package macaroni

1½ cups grated cheese

2 large eggs

1½ cups milk

Salt to taste

⅛ teaspoon paprika

Dash or 2 or Tabasco

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

½ cup cheese

Paprika

Cook the macaroni according to directions on the package. Place layers of macaroni in a butter baking dish and sprinkle the layers with 1½ cups grated cheese (Cheddar preferable). Blend the eggs, milk, salt and paprika and add the Tabasco. Pour this mixture over the macaroni and sprinkle the top with the breadcrumbs and additional cheese. Sprinkle the top with paprika to add color. Serves 8.

MEATLOAF

This recipe comes from a favorite cookbook, “Good Cheap Food” by Miriam Ungerer. It was published in 1973 and although the economy was a principal purpose the book is filled with great recipes. This recipe produces a “gourmet” meat loaf that may also pass as pate (see instructions below).

2 tablespoons bacon drippings

1 medium onion, minced

1 large garlic clove, minced (more if you’re a garlic maven)

2 or 3 slices day-old bread, trimmed

¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 pound ground chuck (beef)

½ pound ground veal (stew meat)

½ pound ground pork shoulder

¼ cup cognac or good bourbon

1 egg, beaten

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

2 or 3 strips bacon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Assemble all ingredients on your work table and put the meats in a large mixing bowl. The ground meat is easier to work at room temperature. Heat the bacon drippings and sauté the onion and garlic until soft and transparent. Crumble the tread to fine soft crumbs and sprinkle over the meats. Scrape the onions and garlic into the meats; add the parsley, cognac or bourbon, egg, salt, pepper, allspice and thyme. Mix thoroughly (hands are best) and pack the meatloaf into a 1-quart loaf pan, lay the bay leaf on top and cover the meatloaf with bacon strips. Set in the preheated oven on the middle rack and back for 1½ hours. When done, all the meatloaf to remain in the pan and place in a warm place for about 20 to 30 minutes before slicing to avoid crumbling. Serves 4 to 6.

Note: To serve as a cold pate, place another loaf pan on top of the meatloaf and weigh it down for 4 or 5 hours with about a pound of canned goods. Seal tightly with aluminum foil and chill before serving.

APPLE BROWN BETTY

This dessert was especially popular during the Depression and is making a comeback. It originated about 1864 and it is believed that in truth the creator of this dish was indeed named Betty. It is also called Brown Betty and when made with blueberries — Blue Betty.

4 or 5 apples, peeled and sliced

⅓ cup sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup flour

¾ cup brown sugar

1 stick butter or margarine

Peel and slice apples. Place in a lightly greased 9x9-inch oven-proof pan. Sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over apples. Mix together flour and brown sugar. Cut in cold butter. Mixture will be crumbly. Sprinkle over apples in pan. Bake in a 350-degree preheated oven for 35 to 45 minutes or until lightly browned. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: I confess that I have jazzed this recipe up by using granola or oatmeal and less flour and, finally, I occasionally add nuts and even a bit of coconut.

Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet was Fried” and a four-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” They are for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com