The people of Dove III in Melbourne understand love of food
A great man once said, “Non c'è amore più sincero di quello per il cibo:” No love is more sincere than (the love of) food.
The great man was George Bernard Shaw. The people of The Dove III, from its owner to its chefs to its servers, may have had it in mind, because they do seem passionate about what they do, and they do it well.
The Dove III is the grandchild of John Mattiello’s much-missed original beachside Dove, and much like it in that it is a dressy (actual table linens, decent flatware, footed glassware), though not over-formal, place without steep prices.
Mattiello’s son Carlo has this one, and he is everywhere, helping servers, talking to customers, expediting orders, which is great, because if everybody dislikes an impersonal restaurant, everybody despises an impersonal Italian restaurant.
Italian this is, but if you want pizza, calzones and knots, go elsewhere. This is about Italian meals. The menu is diverse without being unmanageable, with lots of wines — Carlo Mattiello went to tables offering “a splash” to each diner during our last visit — from which to choose.
Twisted Birch brings breakfast, sports bar to Rockledge
Service was immediate, attentive and professional, and bread came quickly, in the form of warm, whole-grain sourdough rolls, which were good, but the slightly-herbed breadsticks with which they came were better.
Our appetizer was Caprese salad ($10), which had the best presentation of this classic that we’ve yet to see here, made with buttery homemade mozzarella, perfect balsamic vinegar (as opposed to glaze) and fine extra virgin olive oil. The cheese was not cold, by the way, but clearly had been removed from its liquid a little in advance, which is the way things should be. “Ice cold” is dandy for root beer, not cheese. Bravo, Dove III.
The entrees this day were diverse: chicken piccata ($12 for lunch), sautéed flounder with butter sauce and rice, the catch of the day ($14); and shrimp and avocado salad ($13). Each came with soup, in this case, a thick pottage of a minestrone with plenty of beans and vegetables that made it not unlike a pasta e fagioli.
The chicken was a lemony delight, with just enough capers and sufficient sauce to make fresh pasta even better. Half the dish went home, so big was it. The flounder, also lemon-scented, was delicate and flavorful, the perfect hot lunch for a hot day, and the rice with which it was served received high marks. I want to go back to see what Dove III does with risotto.
Twisted Birch brings breakfast, sports bar to Rockledge
The shrimp and avocado salad is unique: lots of seasoned, grilled shrimp atop greens, tomatoes and avocado slices, sprinkled with a little avocado-infused oil and beautifully plated. “Refreshing” is a great description. So is “delicious.”
How did we know Dove III would be grand, all-around, from the start? Well, one of the words on the dessert menu was “Armagnac,” which you see at about two other restaurants in Brevard. Oh, that I didn’t have to drive!
Anyway, the choice for dessert was cheesecake, and it was a wise one because it was Italian-style, made with ricotta for creamy lightness, and served with squirts of whipped cream. That’s “cream,” as in (repeat after me), “not topping!”
Was this the perfect meal? Well, the tomatoes in the salads lacked flavor, the chicken could have been pounded slightly thinner and this still wasn’t Dove I’s magnificent bread, but that’s trifling. This was one superb lunch, and we’ve been to The Dove III for superb dinners too.
We’ll go again. Soon.
The Dove III
Four stars
Address: 836 E. New Haven Ave., Melbourne
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Friday: 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday
Call: 321-725-3683
Online: www.thedovefl.com
WiFi: Yes
Other: Extensive wine list and premium spirits, including cognacs, Armagnacs, malt whiskys, ports and cordials; children get half portions for half price; space available for private events.
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
5 Stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.
4 Stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.
3 Stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.
2 Stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.
1 Star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.
Want to talk food? Tweet @lyn_ dowling or email 321foodreviews@ gmail.com.