The Farmer's Wife: Chef Robin Mastera emphasizes comfort food

Robin Mastera’s approach in the kitchen all goes back to her mother’s mantra: There’s always room for one more at the table.

The value of a family dinner is what drives Mastera, who retired from a job at Goodwill Industries to open The Farmer’s Wife, 6533 W. Mitchell St. in West Allis, last year.

Related:Review: Homey comforts at the Farmer's Wife

Mastera’s memories of her mother influence her every day. A widow with six children, her mother would turn two chickens into three meals that fed the family. There were sometimes dinners of popcorn and sugar sandwiches when things were tough, but her mom never stopped smiling.

It’s an approach that she takes into her own kitchen, where she makes all the sauces from scratch while family recipes for favorites like meatloaf and pot pie are always on the menu. Next up, she’ll host a pig roast at The Farmer’s Wife on Sept. 23.

Why West Allis

I grew up on 62nd and Main. It was a big deal for me to be able to go to downtown West Allis when I was little. I raised my kids in West Allis. I was here for the heyday, and I was here for lesser glory. I’m back trying to be part of the positive changes here.

Her influences

My husband is from the East Coast, and I learned to really love seafood. He was raised on a dairy farm in Massachusetts. I really started exploring when I found out one of my kids had food sensitivities. What’s the difference with eating clean? That’s where my passion comes from in part. Now the kids are grown, I’m coming of age and back in the business, doing what I love. I just brought my family recipes that everyone likes, and hired a couple good cooks to work with me.

What’s in a name

Well, my husband was born on a fifth-generation dairy farm. That’s the Farmer’s Wife. It also holds true to my personality. It is all comfort food. I try to keep local. I shop at the West Allis Farmers Market two blocks away. I work with Growing Power and LOTFOTL (CSA). Our meats all come from Kettle Range Meats.

What drives her

I love to make people happy, and I love to bring people together. There is no better thing than seeing a family sitting down at a table eating their Sunday dinner. They’re having family time and I’m giving them the tools to do that.

I grew up with dinner every night with the family. My mom was a widow with six kids. It was all homemade, there was no going out to eat.

Everyone at the table

One lady comes in fairly frequently and it is one of the only places the whole family can sit down together with all their food allergies and issues. I do vegan, gluten free. We thicken our chowder with slurry of cornstarch and water, rather than flour. I was in health care, and worked with kids with special needs. I’m really aware of the different needs and the true effect.

Traditions at her table

We are not open any major holidays. I bring my son in from Arizona and we sit down at the table, my daughter and daughter-in-laws help. The cooking and the work are part of the tradition. If you can get seven people together and cook a huge meal without anybody fighting, you’ve conquered the world.

Always on her menu

There are four things: the lobster roll, the pot pie, the pot roast and meatloaf. those will always be there.

Secret to a good meatloaf

I make a tomato sweet-pepper relish. I put some inside and on top, and we finish it on the grill.

Meeting her match

I met my husband when he was in the Navy. He was stationed at Great Lakes. I was expecting my best friend to come over. I was in my pajamas already. I opened the door and there was a stranger. I slammed the door in his face. She and her boyfriend had brought his roommate. I married him five months later.

Recipe she’s known for

Pot pie, that’s something I learned from my mom. I brought that with me here, and it is a happy memory for me. It just tastes like home. If I can give somebody the warmth that it gives me, I’m doing my job.

Start from scratch

I’d be in the kitchen with my aunties. At 7 years old I could throw down some jam like you wouldn’t believe. I whip the honey butter here. The jams are all homemade. The Asian sauces and barbecue sauces are all made from scratch here. That’s all thanks to the older generation.

Her favorite

Pot roast. It’s one of my top sellers, even this time of year. It’s on the menu year-round.

Current craving

Shrimp po’ boy, that is my favorite thing on the menu right now.

Looking ahead

My big dream right now, I would love a second location. We’ve done nice trips. I have lots of things. Things don’t warm my heart.

I’m looking forward to doing something like the Farmer’s Daughter, a pop-up (on July 8). We close at 9 and reopen at 9:30 with spicy cocktails, little plates, ceviche, yucca fries. We built a little patio and it looks great. If the pop up goes well, maybe we’ll try it again.

Her table

My mom would always say, there is always room for one more at our table. We do a lot of family get-togethers. No one has to wear their best suit, but if you’re coming in one, I’ll take you any way you come.

Living her dream

My job I retired from to open the restaurant was from Goodwill Industries, working with adults with severe brain injuries. I taught them international cooking and took them out to different restaurants. And got paid for it. My husband said how crazy are you, you’re giving up all your perks from work? I’m loving it.

Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email nstohs@journalsentinel.com.