Flaky phyllo a nifty package for spring veggies
Phyllo comes from the Greek word for leaf, an apt description for the wafer-thin flaky layers of dough that make up baklava and spanakopita.
The dough is unleavened and made with very little fat, which is why most recipes call for brushing the dough with butter or olive oil just prior to cooking.
Phyllo dough, like puff pastry, is a difficult recipe that few home cooks undertake. In addition to being difficult for an amateur, there are very good products you can buy off the shelf (in the freezer section), so there is little motivation for a home cook to try it — unless one is looking for a challenge.
The television production, the “Great British Baking Show” (three past seasons currently on Netflix), is a comforting reality show where sweetness abounds — not only in the cakes but also in the warm hugs that send off losing contestants. In the show, talented home bakers make towering cakes, laminated croissant doughs, spun sugar sculptures and tempered chocolate, showing off a set of skills typically found only in professional kitchens.
Frequently there is a technical trial where participants have to make their own phyllo dough. It’s fascinating to watch as bakers roll out parchment-thin dough that takes up their entire cooking bench, and then attempt to manipulate it without tearing.
But even these proficient home bakers balk at this challenge. One murmurs, “I’ve never made this before. Everyone just buys it.” And while I love to watch others attempt this baking tall order, it will not be happening in my kitchen anytime soon.
However, I absolutely will bake with store-bought phyllo. The thin layers, lightly brushed with fat, bake up light, golden and shatteringly crispy. Whether drenched in honey for a dessert or wrapped around well-seasoned vegetables, phyllo adds a layer of finish and impressiveness to recipes.
Here, a skillet of baby kale and asparagus are tossed with fresh cheese and eggs. Phyllo is laid out in a pie pan and attractively rumpled on top to provide a pretty, crunchy casing for the spring vegetable custard.
This is an easy weeknight meal, but it looks impressive enough to anchor the spread at an upscale brunch.
Recipe
Anna Thomas Bates is a mother and writer living in southern Wisconsin. Find more recipes and stories on her blog,tallgrasskitchen.com. Email her attallgrasskitchen@gmail.com.