ENTERTAINMENT

Review: Sample British fare at Archie’s in Melbourne

Lyn Dowling
For FLORIDA TODAY

If you are a Beatles fan of long standing, you know what a butty is; Beatles and butties are indivisible, going back to the days before peace and vegetarianism.

So if you are a Fabs freak or if you simply long for British food (or close to it), head to Archie’s Bar & Grill in Melbourne.

Located on the site of the former Surf Dog’s, with a pretty patio, Archie’s is not over-decorated, though it does have rest room doors cleverly painted to look like a pair of red telephone boxes, and a Union Jack or two. Behind the bar are house beers, including Budweiser, Fuller’s London Pride bitter and Murphy’s Stout from Cork; a selection of wines; and “guest beers,” the names of which are chalked on blackboards. Service is exceptionally friendly and attentive.

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The menu is informal: British-inspired appetizers like Shepherd’s Fries ($7.95), French fries topped with shepherd’s pie filling; why they weren’t named “Shepherd’s Chips” remains to be asked. There are lots of American-style burgers too, as well as wings, sandwiches and lighter fare, but that which draws the nostalgic eye is what’s under “From Across the Pond,” which includes bangers and mash, scampi and chips, fish and chips and shepherd’s pie. The aforementioned bacon butty is on the sandwich menu, near the British Banger.

There also are specials such as Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, pies and sticky toffee pudding, when available. Emphasize the last words, because the Scotch eggs apparently sell out fast, as does the dessert; both were chalked but unavailable on our visit.

We went for a sausage roll ($5.50), a banger encased in pastry and served with shredded lettuce, curried mustard and red onion chutney. In flavor and texture, the banger was fairly close to the sausage found in the U.K., though the pastry as a bit limp, possibly from reheating. The mustard and chutney were marvelous.

The entree was fish and chips ($13.95), partially because it was a Friday in Lent, but truthfully because I like fish and chips. This was a great slab of lovely cod, perfectly, crisply battered, fried and laid atop American-style steak fries. Chips that come from potatoes cut and cooked by the Brit of your choice are better, but these were decent, and this is one of the best versions of the English classic in this area.

Banzai proves to be delightful surprise

And there was that bacon butty ($6.95), which contained actual British bacon (it is much meatier than the U.S. kind, with part of the loin; more like a thin slice of smoked ham), a fried egg and the requisite butter, which is why butties are named butties. Archie’s version was all right, if a touch oily, and highly reminiscent of a breakfast sandwich.

As toffee pudding was sold out, apple crumble ($5.25) was available for dessert, and it satisfied, with a wonderfully crunchy topping and creamy ice cream. The whipped topping was entirely unnecessary, though.

Finally, the tea warrants a visit in its own right: hot, strong and British, rather than dusty purveyor rubbish or “brisk” substitutes. Tea drinkers don’t want flowers or stuff in fancy bags. They want actual tea and cheers for that, Archie’s.

Look, if you want to find out what hungry musicians of the early 1960s devoured at the Jacaranda Club, come ’ead to Archie’s. It may not be culinarily perfect, but it is congenial and fun. See you there.

***

It has been brought to our attention that the hours of La Crêpe de France were cut off in a recent review. Well, here’s the truth: La Crêpe is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Je m'excuse, La Crêpe.

Want to talk food? Tweet @lyn_dowling or email 321foodreviews@ gmail.com.

Archie’s Bar & Grill

Three stars

Address: 2996 Lake Washington Road, Melbourne

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Call: 321-610-8011

Online: www.facebook.com/archiesbar2996

WiFi: Yes

Other: Patio dining; “British brekkie” breakfast with grilled tomato, fried bread, beans, etc. from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays

About our reviews

Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.

★★★★★Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.

★★★★Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.

★★★Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.

★★Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.

Not recommended. Don’t bother.