Restaurant Review: Move to West Bend suits Tochi
It's been almost a year since the ramen shop Tochi closed in Shorewood to head to West Bend, chef Gregg Des Rosier's hometown.
It reopened a few months later in a storefront below condos and near the Eisenbahn State Trail. Des Rosier crafted the space he wanted: rising-sun rays on one wall to punctuate the deep-red room; "Godzilla" and the like on TV; live-edge wooden tables, all cut from a single 119-year-old ash tree, that warm up the concrete and other industrial elements; and a steady stream of punk anthems and power pop from the speakers.
The new location gives Tochi a bigger kitchen, so it can serve the long-simmering tonkotsu-style pork ramen ($13.95) daily now instead of once a week, and offer more daily specials.
The food — various types of Japanese ramen imprinted with Des Rosier's style — was even better than when I reviewed Tochi in 2014.
The specials might be something like a fun hot dog with kimchi, chile sauce and melted mozzarella on a bun ($5.95) on Thursdays, a daily chef's bowl and dishes made with area produce in summer.
To very good appetizers like shishito peppers ($6.95) — little browned umami bombs seasoned with fish sauce, pork fat and sesame seeds — Tochi has added some new ones in West Bend, like a play on pot stickers: brat stickers ($6.95), bratwurst and sauerkraut rolled in wonton wrappers. On, Wisconsin!
Ramen is still the main event, and Tochi's broths remain full-flavored and stocked with golden, springy noodles. Soy sauce and a bit of citrusy yuzu season the shoyu ramen that holds shrimp, slices of rolled chicken ($12.95) and a creamy soft-boiled egg marinated in soy sauce.
New menu items appear occasionally. A chilled udon dish for summer popped on a week ago after my final visit, for instance, and shrimp, white cheddar and bacon congee replaced chicken congee (a personal favorite).
Tochi feels like a restaurant where the chef is having fun, and that translates to a good time for guests, too.
Contact Carol Deptolla at (414) 224-2841, cdeptolla@journalsentinel.com or on Twitter, @mkediner. Carol Deptolla dines anonymously with food and drink paid for by the Journal Sentinel. Sign up for the Journal Sentinel'sweekly food and dining newsletter.
TOCHI RAMEN
705 Village Green Way, West Bend
(262) 429-1515
★★★ (very good)
Food:★★★
Service:★★1/2
Ambience:★★★
Fare: Ramen, other noodle and rice dishes, appetizers, specials
Atmosphere: Casual spot with industrial and organic elements
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday
Prices: Noodle bowls and rice dishes, $8.95-$13.95
Parking: On street and nearby public lot
Wheelchair access: Yes, entry and restrooms
Payment: MasterCard, Visa, Discover
Of special note: Vegan option; nonsmoking warm-weather patio; takeout; children's options, high chairs, booster seats; Wi-Fi
Reservations: Not taken; suggested that groups of 8 or more call ahead
Noise level: Mildly loud at peak times