Flooring in a rental property is a topic that all landlords – no matter how many properties they own – need to know about.

Since it’s a rental, your choice of flooring needs to be able to withstand a lot of wear and tear. As such, you want to choose a material that is strong and durable. But, as a savvy landlord, you also don’t want something that is not costly or high maintenance.

In this article, Jason from Young Management Corporation, a local real estate and property management company, shares things you should consider when buying flooring for your rental property, as well as the flooring options to consider.

6 Things to Consider When Buying Flooring for Your Rental Property

1. Safety

Landlords who don’t use reasonable care to safeguard their tenants could be in breach of contract. If your tenant slips and falls, you could find yourself fighting a lawsuit.

2. Installation

Easy installation depends on two factors: how easy you can find a supplier and how easy the installation process is. The less time you spend finding a supplier, the more time you are left to do other landlord tasks. And the less time it takes to install, the lower the chances of vacancies.

3. Aesthetics

You want to choose flooring that is attractive so you can easily rent your unit. Also, keep in mind that tenants will pay a higher rent price to live in a nice, modern unit.

4. Durability

Durable flooring lasts longer. They have the ability to withstand frequent moves with furniture coming and going.

5. Maintenance

Rental flooring deals with a lot of foot traffic. If you choose the wrong flooring option, you could find yourself with high maintenance costs.

6. Affordability

The cost of flooring depends on three factors: the cost of the material, cost of installation, and cost of routine maintenance. Similar to other products, each flooring type has its high-end and most affordable versions.

Types of Wood Flooring

Wood flooring comes in a variety of types and sizes. It’s, therefore, a question of matching the most suitable option for your rental property.

There are two options to consider. One, engineered wood flooring which is made from wood and synthetic materials. And two, solid wood flooring which is made from 100% wood.

Engineered Wood Flooring

If you are on the hunt for a long-lasting floor material with a classic look, then you might want to consider this option. It’s available in plenty of species, stains, and styles.

Engineered hardwood flooring is made up of three layers. The inner layers are made of hardwood, high-density fiberboard, or plywood. The core layers make the product more stable than regular hardwood, while the outermost layer is just for authenticity and beauty.

Pros of engineered wood flooring:

• Keeping the floor clean. The product is stain-resistant. Going over the floor with a dust mop, in most cases, will be all that’s required.
• The durability. Engineered wood flooring holds up well as the years pass, contrary to what many people think.
• The ease of installation. All types of engineering flooring types are easy to install.
• The cost of purchase and installation. In comparison to other solutions, engineered wood flooring is competitively priced.

Cons of engineered wood flooring:

• Health concerns. Some types of adhesives used to bind the layers of the engineered flooring can cause some allergic reactions in some people.
• The materials used. Not all manufacturers utilize the highest quality materials in the production of the flooring.

Solid Wood Flooring

Solid wood flooring is exactly what the name implies: a solid piece of wood from top to bottom. It’s one of the most desirable flooring choices today, with a long history and the durability to last for generations.

The main difference between engineered and solid wood flooring is in the plank’s construction. In turn, this affects how, when, and where they can be used.

Pros of solid wood flooring:

• Healthier living. This type of flooring is cleaner and better for everyone. You don’t have to worry about dirt build-up, pet dander, allergens, and dust like you do with carpet.
• Durability. With the right care, solid wood flooring is built to last.
• Value. Solid wood flooring is one part of your home’s décor that keeps its value over time.
• Care and maintenance. Solid wood flooring is easy to care for. Did somebody spill wine while partying? No problem. Just wipe it up and you’re all set.
• Options. You have the choice of either unfinished or pre-finished planks of solid wood flooring.

Cons of solid wood flooring:

• Solid wood flooring doesn’t get on with underfloor heating.
• They are not waterproof.
• Solid hardwood is generally more costly because of the amount of solid wood that is used for each plank of flooring.

Choosing the right flooring for your rental property is a big decision. By choosing wood flooring over other options, you’ll ensure you get optimum materials for both visual and practical impact while offering elegance and style to your tenants.

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The biggest benefit to some gardeners is reduced back strain when bending over to tend to a raised garden bed compared to a ground level garden. If the beds are built right, the gardener can even sit on the edge of the bed while tending to their plants. This is especially helpful to older gardeners or people with bad backs.

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Raised garden beds can be made with relative ease with your choice of wood. Cedar and redwood are naturally water-resistant but can be expensive and hard to find. Hemlock, fir and pine are suitable materials for raised beds, but aren’t very long-lasting. Pressure wood is an option that is widely available at a comparable cost and will last longer than untreated lumber. The pressure treatment protects wood from rot, decay and wood-eating insects. Current treatments are deemed low-risk by the EPA, and designated safe for use around humans, pets, plants and vegetables. Even though the treatment is safe, many gardeners recommend using untreated wood for raised garden beds, especially ones that will be used to grow edible plants and vegetables, so there is no risk of any chemicals leaching into the soil and contaminating the plants.

Besides the type of wood, there are other factors to consider when building and installing a raised garden bed. It is important to know what sort of plants you plan to have growing there: how much sunlight they need and how deep their roots grow, so you can build your garden box accordingly.

When you are ready to get started on building a raised garden bed, or any other woodworking projects, call or stop by the Schutte Lumber Showroom and let our experienced staff help you get the materials you need.

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More alder is now available at Schutte Lumber Company!

Alder is a popular choice among fine furniture and cabinetry makers for its natural consistency and beautiful color. Alder dries to an even honey tone, with little color variation between the heartwood and the sapwood, making alder ideal for light or natural finishes. This hardwood specie is one of the most versatile and easy to handle no matter the project at hand.

Alder Superior is the most flexible alder grade with the highest yield. The FAS boards are cabinet grade or better, yielding 83-⅓ clear face cuttings. It is ideal for uses requiring long, wide clear-face cuttings or multiple rips and chops. Popular applications include cabinet and entry doors, casegoods and millwork.

Alder Premium, also known as knotty alder, exhibits larger defects than Alder Superior, but maintains its structural integrity. It is an appearance and structural grade hardwood with scattered sound and unsound defects,  but each board yields a high percentage of long, sound cuttings. Popular applications include rustic or distressed cabinetry and furniture, upholstery rails and frame components.

Schutte Lumber will now be supplying both Superior and Premium (knotty) Alder, in larger quantities than ever before. We are receiving full rail containers direct from the supplier, which means more alder will be available for more projects. Now you can build “alder” things you want! See our product listings – S4S & Rough

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“Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing is a pre-welded, easily customized and enhanced version of traditional wrought iron railing that brings unparalleled quality to any patio, deck, balcony or porch. It provides a clean, classic appearance that is versatile for a variety of applications and surfaces. Pre-galvanized steel, zinc phosphate, e-coat and premium powder coating make it the most elegant and durable iron railing system on the market.”

Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing products are coated with durable, multi-layered anti-corrosion coating technology adopted from the high-end automotive industry. The FortressShield Coating resists rust and corrosion making Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing products longer lasting and virtually maintenance free.

There are many ways to customize Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing. Customers can choose between three premium textured finishes in Gloss Black, Antique Bronze or Black Sand. All panels can be used with several types of posts such as metal, wood, vinyl or composite. Three styles of level panels exist (traditional, ornamental and vienna) as well as one for stairs, which is a traditional style and adjustable. Posts come in a variety of heights and widths to accommodate your needs. The base plates are pre-drilled enabling ease of wiring for lighting installations if you so desire.

Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing Products also boasts a variety of personalization options, including accent top panels, accent top rail, knuckles, ornaments, gates, accent lighting, post caps with and without lighting, handrail, and cap rail clips. These options allow you to customize your iron railings to match your unique design aesthetic and increase functionality of the product.

Be sure to stop by our showroom or contact any of our sales staff to find out how Fortress Fe²⁶ Iron Railing can work for your next project.

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Lumber produced from Douglas-fir is recognized throughout the world for its strength and performance. It is an affordable softwood that is often used in woodworking and construction. “[Douglas-fir] has the highest ratings of any Western softwood for fiber stress in bending, tension to parallel grain, horizontal shear, compression perpendicular and compression parallel to grain” (wwpa.org). Douglas-fir also has the highest modulus of elasticity value of all North American softwoods, meaning the wood is highly resistant to deformation under load. It is also dimensionally stable and holds nails well. The light rosy color, tight knotting and close graining pattern adds a bonus of beauty to the structural capabilities of Douglas-fir. It also takes staining and painting very well.

Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga) is a genus with six species. Two species grow in North America and four more are native to East Asia. The most important species of Douglas-fir is also called Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii). Its importance is reflected in a common name identical to the name of the genus. “The hyphen in its name lets us know that Douglas-fir is not a “true” fir. It is not a member of the Abies genus” (Oregonstate.edu).

Douglas-fir is native to the Pacific Northwest region, growing abundantly in the coastal climates of Oregon, Washington and northern California. Douglas-fir trees are among the tallest on the continent, averaging from 150 to 200 feet in height and 2 to 6 feet in diameter. It is also Oregon’s state tree and a popular choice of Christmas tree. More Douglas-fir is produced and shipped from the West than any other species.

For more information visit the Western Wood Products Association website at www.wwpa.org

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All of us at Schutte Lumber Company are proud to announce our partnership with Simpson Strong-Tie, the leading manufacturer of structural connecting systems for wood, steel, masonry, concrete, and composite wood building construction. Simpson Strong-Tie is the world leader in structural product solutions – solutions that not only help our customers, but help make structures safer and stronger. Whether you are looking for brackets to connect deck joists for your home or connecting structural beams for a commercial constructions job, Simpson Strong-Tie has the solution.  Be sure to stop by our showrooms or contact any of our sales staff to find out more about these great products.

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HK 55 Carpentry Saw

Tired of hauling your material to a miter saw when on the jobsite?  Struggling to make accurate cuts with a circular saw? Check out the new HK 55 line of Carpentry Saws. Coupled with the FSK guide rails they are the ultimate solution for all wood processing on the jobsite.

Can’t make it to Schutte Lumber Company to see it in action?  View this online demo here. Ready to buy?  Give us a call at 816-753-6262

DWC18 Drywall Gun

This drywall gun was made for serious work. Equipped with a magazine attachment for using commonly available collated screws. It has on-demand push and drive system that eliminates holding a trigger, electronic cut-off and precision depth control. Quiet, efficient, and accurate for faster installs with less fatigue.

Online demo will demonstrate why you need this in your arsenal.

SysLite Du0

 And last, but certainly not least, if you can’t see what you are working on then Festool has solved that problem.  Introducing the SysLite Duo! Compact, light and equipped with top handle for easy transport the SysLite DUO can be used on the floor, nearly any horizontal surface, hung off a nail or screw or project light with the optional adjustable tripod.

Watch here and see how to turn the darkest work areas into day.

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Whether you’re in a woodshop for work, or to visit for some other reason, safety must always be a top priority. People lose body parts and even their own lives in woodshops every year. The following 12 tips will help reduce your risk to a minimum.

1. Inspect The Work Area Before Beginning

It’s not just important that you know your way around the woodworking shop. You also need to know what’s where at any given time. For example, things left out to dry or set can pose as obstacles. Take a quick jaunt around and inspect the place, even if it’s your own garage. This may seem basic, but you’d be surprised how many accidents happen because of this.

2. Always Tell Someone What You’re Doing And For How Long

Under the “just in case” type of scenario, you want to inform someone of your intentions to work in the shop. Let them know about how long you’ll be in there and what you’ll likely be working on. Accidents can involve all types of situations, such as those that would render someone unconscious or otherwise unable to help themselves. It doesn’t need to be an awkward announcement, just a quick heads up to someone close to you.

3. Dress For The Occasion

Be sure and wear comfortable clothing that isn’t going to catch on any machines. It should be loose enough fitting to keep you flexible, but not so much that it impedes your ability to maneuver around dangerous equipment.

4. Invest In Solid Safety Equipment

You probably wouldn’t get on a motorcycle and drive in excess of 80 miles per hour without first putting on a dependable helmet and you should take the same approach whenever you enter a woodworking shop. Whether it’s a welding shield, gloves or boots, don’t be caught with any safety equipment that might let you down.

5. Check Your Safety Equipment Prior To Entry

In the army, soldiers don’t pull out for a mission without inspecting all of their equipment for functionality. You should maintain the same type of diligence with all of your safety equipment and tools.

6. Never Work in the Shop When You Are Excessively Tired

Even if you’re pressed for time on a project, don’t show up at the shop if you’re tired or otherwise ill prepared to maintain an adequate level of alertness. This includes when you are short on sleep, stressed or have partaken of any alcoholic drinks.

7. Always Unplug Your Tools Before Fixing Or Adjusting Them

While it may take extra time, it’s extra important that you avoid working on a power tool when it’s still plugged into an outlet. Disengage the source of electricity and voila, you’re good to go.

8. Inspect Wood Prior To Cutting It

Make certain any wood you’re going to be sawing into doesn’t have any nails, screws, staples or other metal objects embedded in it. This safety check is often overlooked, despite how dangerous that can be.

9. Don’t Be Precarious Around The Equipment

If you don’t have good balance or are being forced to contort yourself at a precarious angle in order to work, stop what you’re doing and rearrange the environment, in order to avoid not having complete control. You don’t want to be extending your arms over moving blades and you want to have solid footing at all times.

10. Be Constantly Aware Of Your Surroundings

If there’s a garage door open, wind or people could creep up on you; if there’s a dog or child roaming the building, they, too, could catch you by surprise, possibly putting all of you in danger. Either seal off the area you’re working in, or be alert to major changes in your surroundings that could spell trouble.

11. Take Care With Power Cords

Not only do they pose a tripping hazard in woodworking shops, if you’re not well organized with your cords, you might not be able to immediately tell which tools are plugged in and which aren’t. Always work neatly and conscientiously with cords, to avoid unnecessary risks.

12. Clean Up Immediately After You’re Finished

The safety of the next woodworking session is directly dependent on how well you clean up your last. Don’t leave odd pieces of wood hanging around and sweep up any debris you may have created while working. Most especially: unplug equipment you used and make sure it’s ready to go for the next person, even if that person is you.

Always make safety 101 your number one priority with woodworking. The risks are simply far too great to ever slack off.

Abe Knepp was born and raised in a “Horse and Buggy” Amish family in rural Indiana. He owns and operates www.ItsAmishMade.com where he sells custom hardwood kitchen cabinets.

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